Old brick houses, although neglected and partly modified, have retained its charm.
Photos & Projects

Submerging in Ponarth with Minolta X-500 – By Milosz J. Zielinski

June 6, 2021

The Pregel, flowing through Kaliningrad Oblast and finding its way to Vistula Lagoon just outside of Kaliningrad, is a peculiar river. It starts where two other streams – Angerapp and Alle – join. At some point in time the current became so strong that the Pregel bifurcated into Pregel proper and Deime. Yet it was still not enough to keep the element at bay. Just outside of Kaliningrad, water flow gets so immense that the river meanders, creating islands and meadows so swampy that they have to remain largely uninhabited and serve only for summerhouses and fishing spots.

Ponarth's brewery #2

The Pregel has behaved this way for centuries. Its wildness and caprices probably got envisaged in the name of an old Pruthenian settlement which later became a village and, subsequently, a neighbourhood within Königsberg – Ponarth. The word is believed to mean either behind the edge or diving, submerging, whirling. In both cases, it clearly refers to Pregel and its wetlands which still separate this part of Kaliningrad from the historic downtown.

Ponarth's neo-Gothic church is now an Orthodox khram #1

Ponarth’s neo-Gothic church is now an Orthodox khram #1

Ponarth’s golden age began in mid-19th century along with advancing industrialisation and construction of the East Prussian Railway, connecting Berlin with Königsberg. The rural village quickly transformed into a town with a brewery, a city-like park, a neo-Gothic church and a sports club called MTV. Especially the former became the stimulus for the settlement’s growth. Founded in 1849, the brewery produced an astonishing 90,000 tons of beer a year. It was famous across all Germany.

Kievskaya Street is former Ponarth's axis #2

Kievskaya Street is former Ponarth’s axis.

Such mass-scale production required manpower. The number of Ponarth’s inhabitants rose from 3,500 to over 8,000 in just 5 years between 1895 and 1900. Construction of houses that followed the population boom actually blended the town into Königsberg. Five years later Ponarth found itself within the administrative borders of the city and was officially transformed into a suburban area. It has been busy and lively every since, always retaining a colouring of its own.

Old brick houses, although neglected and partly modified, have retained its charm.

Old brick houses, although neglected and partly modified, have retained its charm.

World War Two left Ponarth damaged, but not destroyed, similarly to the west of Königsberg (usually referred to as Amalienau or Hufen). Most importantly, the district’s main factories continued to function. As military officers and clerks moved in comfortable villas and semi-detached houses of Hufen, and the southwest, so did industrial workers in Ponarth’s poorer dwellings and brick houses. This made Ponarth repopulate quickly with newcomers from all over Soviet Union. In 1947, two years after the war had ended and a year after Königsberg was renamed into Kaliningrad. the district was incorporated into the the newly created Baltiyskiy Rayon (Baltic District). Because of its new inhabitants and decades-long lack of investment in infrastructure, the name became a regional local synonym for shabbiness and roughness. Some people even called it ‘the bear’s corner’, advising not to go there without a clear reason.

Ponarth's brewery #5

Ponarth’s brewery.

Although Baltrayon ceased to exist in 2009 due to administrative reforms, Kaliningraders have kept memory of its special charm. Most people who are even a tiny bit interested in the history of the city remember the Zhigulyovskoye beer which continued the pre-war traditions. The historic brewery is still there although now it’s largely devastated and impossible to serve its purpose. Is it justified to say that Ponarth, still exists? On one hand, the neighbourhood for 75 years has been part of Soviet/Russian Kaliningrad belonging to Soviet Union/Russian Federation. Inhabitants, street names and many other things have altered. On the other hand, the memory of Ponarth, its rich history and charm not only has survived but has also been cherished by many contemporary Kaliningraders. Plus, even they keep using the old name. At least in this sense Ponarth has not sunken into oblivion.

All photos were taken during two photo walks in October and Novermber 2020 using Minolta X-500 and various Minolta Rokkor lenses. Films were developed, scanned and edited to taste by me using Plustek OpticFilm 8200i, Lasersoft SilverFast and DxO PhotoLab. More photos can be found on my webpage: www.miloszzielinski.pl.  

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  • Reply
    John Fontana
    June 6, 2021 at 10:27 am

    Hi. What film stock did you use?

    • Reply
      Milosz J. Zielinski
      June 6, 2021 at 12:16 pm

      I’m sorry to see this information is lacking. My mistake! I used Ilford/Kentmere 100.

  • Reply
    Jim Ralf
    June 6, 2021 at 10:32 am

    Like my grandmother I still make Königsberger Klopse

  • Reply
    Thorsten Wulff
    June 6, 2021 at 11:46 am

    Amazing, thank you Milosz! One of my best friends was born in Kaliningrad, but the closest I got was Klaipeda in 1990. Yet ;))

    • Reply
      Milosz J. Zielinski
      June 6, 2021 at 12:14 pm

      Thank you for your kind words! I’m sure one day you’ll make it to Kaliningrad 🙂

  • Reply
    June 6, 2021 at 9:20 pm

    I just read a book on the WW2 fall of Königsberg, devastating . Interesting photo’s. Is there anything left of Prussian culture?

    • Reply
      Milosz J. Zielinski
      June 6, 2021 at 10:13 pm

      It depends on what you mean by Prussian culture. There are some material remnants of pre-war architecture (although many East Prussian towns were heavily damaged, not enerything got destroyed). There is very little left of customs and other non-material elements, though, as most of the pre-1945 inhabitants either fled the province or were re-settled to Germany shortly after the war. Newcomers came predominantly from Russia, Belarus and Ukraine (from the Soviet Union republics, that is). Nowadays, however, many people in Kaliningrad Oblast look back at the both the pre-war and post-war past which results in new regional and local identity emerging.

    • Reply
      June 7, 2021 at 6:13 pm

      I found this really interesting. Photographs from other countries is almost as good as travel and this post gives me insight into a region I’ll probably never visit. Thank you.

  • Reply
    June 11, 2021 at 5:14 am

    Very interesting local history, thanks for sharing! Like Graeme said, it is nice how photos and essays can be a form of armchair travel. Are you from this area yourself, or were you visiting? I’ve not been to this part of the world, but I like maths, and I know Königsberg from the Königsberg bridge problem, one of my favourite problems in mathematics. Euler’s solution is as beautiful as it is brilliant :’)

    • Reply
      Milosz J. Zielinski
      June 14, 2021 at 11:43 am

      Thanks! I am not from Kaliningrad (I’m not Russian) but I happen to work here. It’s interesting you mentioned the Seven Bridges of Königsberg. I wrote an article about this mathematical challenge some years ago 🙂 If I manage to find it, I will send a link in the comment.

  • Reply
    on ponarth at 35mmc.com | Milosz Jeromin Zielinski
    August 29, 2021 at 12:40 pm

    […] area of pre-war Königsberg that retained its name and charm even after 1945 just got published at 35mmc.com. It’s one of the more prominent blogs about film photography established by Hamish Gill and […]

  • Reply
    Jens Knappe
    January 28, 2022 at 11:02 am

    Many thanks, Milosz, for your reportage about Ponarth !
    My parents in law were born in Kaliningrad and a grandmother came from Klaipeda.
    Therefore i am interested to learn something about the Kaliningrad oblast, how are landscape, cityscape and people in this region.
    Glad to see Minolta shots too !

    • Reply
      Milosz Jeromin Zielinski
      January 28, 2022 at 12:51 pm

      Thank you, Jens! It was an interesting period of my life, living in Russia and getting to experience the pre-war and post-war legacy of the region. I still explore the notions of Kaliningrad Oblast’s identity and politics of memory. Maybe I’ll post some other photos I took there soon!

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