Golden Gate Bridge, Étude No. 14, San Francisco, USA. 2022.

Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

By Olivier Desmet

Image above: Golden Gate Bridge, Étude No. 14, San Francisco, USA. 2022.

Most analogue photography enthusiasts, in 2025, are digital/analogue hybrid practitioners. Who amongst film photographers doesn’t end up viewing and sharing their work as scanned, digital images? And then there are those of us, the weird ones, who shoot digital but print using the traditional darkroom silver printing process. This article provides a broad overview of this somewhat esoteric process as I personally practice it.

But first, why? Why would someone who shoots digital go through the trouble of printing in a darkroom? I have spent countless hours over the years viewing the work of photographers in galleries and museums. This has led me to gain a profound appreciation for the printed photograph, and in particular, for the gelatin silver print. A well-printed and toned gelatin silver print is a jewel-like work of art to me. The silver particles are embedded within the gelatin layer, giving the photograph a glowing, three-dimensional depth that simply can’t be replicated with other processes. It is also a relatively time-consuming and challenging process to master, making a beautiful final print all the more rewarding. Spending countless hours in the darkroom perfecting a print is also something that I greatly enjoy. In this digital world we live in, I find great pleasure in holding a tangible, physical darkroom print in my hands, and in viewing my photographs as millions of tiny bits of shiny silver particles on paper. And so, here is my workflow…

It all starts in the computer, where I make some initial edits to the digital photograph. I use Adobe Lightroom and Silver Efex Pro for this. I convert the file to black and white, crop if needed, and adjust the exposure and contrast to taste, aiming to make the file as close to my desired final image as possible. The image is then moved to Photoshop, where it is inverted (turned into a negative), rotated horizontally, and resized. This is a contact printing process, so the negative we create needs to be the same size as our final print. Lastly, a curve needs to be applied to the negative image to raise shadows and lower highlights. This ensures that the negative’s density is calibrated to compensate for how silver gelatin paper reacts to light. I use the same default curve on all images and adjust contrast and exposure time in the darkroom to fine-tune the print. A great resource to learn more about curve creation and calibration is the book Silver Gelatin in the Digital Age by Douglas Ethridge. Once these steps are completed, the negative file is sent to my digital Epson printer to be printed onto transparency film.

Preparing the file in Photoshop before printing the negative
Preparing the file in Photoshop before printing the negative

I use Mitsubishi Pictorico Ultra Premium OHP transparency film for this—it is considered the “industry standard” for printing on transparency film, and I’ve had great results with it. Print settings for producing the best possible negative will vary from printer to printer, so some experimentation is needed. A screenshot of the print settings I use with my Epson P700 is included; the general gist is to select the highest output resolution and print at the slowest speed.

My Epson P700 print settings for printing the negative
My Epson P700 print settings for printing the negative

Once the negative has been printed, I let it dry completely, and then I’m ready to proceed to the darkroom. Printing, from this point forward, uses the same methodology as your typical run-of-the-mill darkroom printing session, with the understanding that this is a contact printing process: the negative is placed face down against the emulsion side of a piece of light-sensitive darkroom printing paper (I use Ilford Multigrade FB Classic glossy) and sandwiched tightly in a printing frame, then placed underneath the enlarger (I use a Beseler Printmaker 35) and exposed to light. Techniques such as dodging and burning and split-grade printing can, of course, be used at this stage to make aesthetic adjustments to the print and fine-tune the final look. Once exposed, the paper is then processed in wet chemistry using the same methodology that one would follow for any darkroom print.

[Note that this process can also be used by analogue shooters to “rescue” a particularly challenging negative. Suppose you shoot film and occasionally encounter a negative with good potential that is difficult to print as-is. In that case, you could scan the negative, work on the image using digital editing tools, and then proceed as highlighted above.]

Personally, I find that this digital/analogue hybrid approach produces prints of great beauty. In my photography practice, this workflow provides the best of both worlds: the convenience of digital photography paired with the aesthetic beauty of the traditional gelatin silver darkroom print.

The final gelatin silver print, toned, matted, and framed.
The final gelatin silver print, toned, matted, and framed.

Olivier Desmet is a photographer and darkroom printer based in Mill Valley, California. More information about Olivier’s photography and printing practice can be found on his website at www.olivierdesmet.com

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About The Author

By Olivier Desmet
Olivier Desmet (b. 1973, Belgium) is a photographer and darkroom printer based in Mill Valley, California. Deeply influenced by the Japanese concept of mono no aware (the beauty of transience), his work offers viewers a quiet experience that invites introspection.
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Comments

Simon Foale on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Intriguing! And your feature image is terrific. But I'm still trying to figure out why you don't just shoot your original on film! Cost? Resolution? Better tonal control? Film is, indisputably, less convenient than digital, but what you gain, convenience-wise, from skipping the film step, you lose by adding the digital transparency step. I'm guessing there might be a bit more to your rationale than you have (explicitly) stated in this piece?
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Simon Foale replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

PS I checked out your website - brilliant and inspiring!

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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Hi Simon. Thanks for the kind words! I prefer to shoot digital for a number of reasons, some of which (like cost) you've already guessed. Some others: I do a lot of my photography on overseas trips, and hate to travel with bagfulls of film. I also don't like to develop at home (I find the process boring, to be honest) but also don't like to have a lab do it (because I'm a control freak...) Same with scanning negs: don't like to do it at home (so time-consuming) but can't afford to have a good lab do it, and don't like giving any part of the process away to someone else. Thanks for reading, and have a lovely weekend! Olivier

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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

p.s.: I should also admit that I am not skilled enough in the darkroom to be able to achive the same results that I do know using this hybrid worflow. I'm fine with basic dodging and burning, but precise contrast adjustments of small, selective areas of a print can be quite challenging and with a steep learning curve.

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Roger on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Fascinating and thanks for writing this up. Though very different it reminds me of the “olden days” when one way to get a mono transparency was to make a mono print and then photograph it, after suitable dodging and burning, photograph it on transparency film.

I am curious about one point. Do the contrast adjustments in photoshop mean you can always print on the same grade of paper, or do you find you have to experiment with different grades to get the print you want.
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Hi Roger, thanks for reading, glad you found it interesting. I print on Ilford Multigrade paper and usually (but not always) use both low- and high-contrast filters. I adjust the image's tonal densities in Lightroom so I pretty much know in advance how it will print. My default exposure time is 8 seconds with an Ilford "1" low contrast filter, and 16 seconds with a "5" high contrast filter. From there, I will adjust filters and exposure times to dial in the final look of the print as needed/desired. I might lower the low contrast filter to a 0 or .5 as needed, but rarely use a different high contrast filter.

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Stephen Hanka on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Very interesting! It hadn't even occurred to me. Thanks for posting.
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Thanks for reading, Stephen, glad you found it interesting.

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Charles Young on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Olivier: Beautiful photo of The Bridge!
Chuck
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Thank you, Chuck! I had to balance awkwardly on a rather slippery rock at high tide for it, but it was worth the effort :)

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Bob Janes on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

The beauty of the final image is indisputable. The subject and composition do a lot of the heavy lifting here, but even when viewed second-hand and online, the quality of the printing can be appreciated. Thank you for sharing.
I'm intrigued that you use an enlarger as a light source - as far as I'm aware it should be possible to use any unfocused light source for contact printing, but am I missing something?
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Thanks for the kind words, Bob. I use an enlarger simply because it provides an easy way to accurately control exposure times via the enlarger timer, which, of course, turns the enlarger light on and off for me and also controls the safe lights connected to it. But you're right, contact printing can be done with pretty much any light source. Look at Edward Weston, who famously used a simple light bulb for all his contact prints. He got on just fine with that simple setup!

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Gary Smith on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

I suspect were I able to have the room for a wet darkroom, I'd likely shoot more film. It's hard to argue with the results.
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Jens Kotlenga on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Olivier, thanks for sharing your inspiring and enlightening post with us.
I have done some contact printing using cyanotype and VanDyke Brown processes - but for some strange reason it has never occurred to me that I could also simply print on regular silver gelatin paper.
In this context I have a question: you mention in your post that "lastly, a curve needs to be applied to the negative image to raise shadows and lower highlights." Would you like to share this curve with me, basically as a starting point for my own further experimentation? If so, you might want to contact me a [email protected].
Thanks and best wishes, Jens
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Thanks for reading, Jens! The curve I use comes from a template that my buddy Matthew at Distphoto.com has created. He gives it away for free, you just have to sign up for his email list (and you can easily unsubscribe from it afterwards, if you want to.) You can grab it here: https://www.distphoto.com/inkjetnegatives-yto I hope this is helpful!

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Jens Kotlenga replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Hi Olivier, thanks for replying and yes - that was helpful. I have downloaded the relevant files and taken a look at the two curves that are embedded. They match what you mention in your post, namely raising shadows and lowering highlights. Perfect! That sets me up to produce a digital negative and to venture forth into the darkroom and try my luck. Best wishes, Jens

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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Jens, happy printing, and best wishes to you!

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Bud Parr on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

This is great, and thanks for sharing. I’ve done the same process for platinum/palladium printing, but I really should try it for silver gelatin, which has more latitude for contrast. One thing I’m curious about is why you do dodging and burning, when I’d assume you’d do that in photoshop on your negative and not need it at the printing state.
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Hi Bud, Thanks for reading! I only dodge and burn if I find that my computer edits were not sufficient/adequate, and some further editing of the image is required. If I'm able to make those edits to the print via dodging/burning in the darkroom, I do that instead of having to reprint another negative. p.s.: I used to make platinum/palladium prints too! But, being a huge fan of Irving Penn's pt/pd prints, I could never quite match his level of mastery and decided to abandon it to focus solely on silver printing.

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Bud Parr replied:

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Cool, thanks - I’m going to give it a try!

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Leon Winnert on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Fascinating, thanks so much for sharing, particlarly in such a lucid way.
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Thanks for reading, Leon. Glad you enjoyed the write-up.

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David Pauley on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

You make a compelling and aesthetically beautiful case for an approach to darkroom printing that I'd heard of but never seen in action. As I am up to my ears in film, film cameras and have a traditional darkroom setup, I don't think I'll be joining you soon -- but who knows what the future will bring? I'm also curious to know what digital camera and lens you used in this case.

Please keep sharing your work! And thanks.
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Hi David, Thank you for reading and for commenting. It is fantastic that there are so many options available to us, and there is no right or wrong choice, it is all about finding a workflow that we enjoy and that yields results we are happy with. The gear I used to make that image is the Hasselblad X1DII and 80mm XCD lens. A very good camera system, although I've moved on from it.

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Alastair Bell on Printing Digital Photographs Using the Traditional Silver Gelatin Darkroom Process

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Absolutely fascinating!
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Olivier Desmet replied:

Comment posted: 16/11/2025

Glad you found it interesting, Alastair.

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