Slowly stumbling into large format

By Gary Smith

I’m beginning this article in early August 2025. I first started thinking about large format somewhere in 2024 and began watching various YouTube videos that covered the cameras and their use. I was influenced by videos from Tod Korol, Kyle McDougall and (oddly enough) Matt Osborne. I guess by January of 2025 I was actually visiting eBay in search of various cameras. I know that I looked at Wista, Graflex, Linhof and Horseman. For one reason or another nothing really grabbed me. Some were too expensive. Some were 3D printed and I felt that a 3D printed body would be flexible and that I felt I wanted rigidity. In February I found a Nikon 150/5.6 lens on eBay and the $379.99 (USD) seemed reasonable based on what I’d been paying for other lenses (both new and old). So, I ordered the lens despite not having decided on a body.

A week after I ordered the lens, I visited my friendly, local film camera candy store (aka: Blue Moon Camera) and came home with a Toyo 45a for which I paid $800. The Toyo is an all-metal construction – well, almost all-metal. The bellows are paper.

Toyo 45a with labels

As it turns out the lens board that came on the Nikon lens didn’t fit the Toyo. A quick 24-mile trip back to Blue Moon allowed me to leave with a properly sized lens board with the lens mounted. Removing the lens from the lens board isn’t a big deal although you need the right tool. My supply of watchmaking tools and home repair tools didn’t include the correct spanner.

Having a camera body and lens isn’t quite enough when you’re talking about film. I needed some sheet film. Using my favorite online supplier (the one that starts with an “A” and which has a “Z” in the middle) I opted for fifty sheets of 4″ x 5″ Fomapan 100. This selection wasn’t so much about my knowledge of Fomapan as it was about the price per sheet when compared to Tri-X. I had also decided that sending sheet film out for processing and scanning would be problematic. By early 2025 I had been successful with developing (and scanning) both black and white and color 35mm film, and I figured doing 4 x 5 sheets would be pretty similar. However, 4 x 5 sheets don’t fit in the Amsco daylight tank that I was using for 35mm film, and I decided to try using the Stearman Press SP-445 tank. The tank will handle four sheets at a time.

Stearman Daylight Tank

I also realized that I was going to need film holders. Rather than try to find used holders online, I decided to order a set of two new holders from Toyo. While it appears that Toyo is no longer making cameras, they do still have a supply of inventory and I picked up a pair. Each holder will load two sheets of film. Following exposure of the first sheet you need to reinsert the dark slide, remove the film holder from the camera to focus for you next shot and then flip the film holder over so the second sheet can be exposed. The Toyo dark slides have a black strip along the top of one side and a light gray strip on the opposite side. This allows you to keep track of which sheets have been exposed (as long as you remember to flip the dark slides in a consistent manner). Consistency is key in successful large format photography!

Dark Slide fully removed (top) Holder with partially removed slide (bottom)

The calendar was now into late March and I thought I might be ready to take a shot. I mounted the camera on a sturdy tripod and arranged a few film cameras on a dresser in my bedroom and opened the curtains wide to catch the morning sun. I metered using my Sony a7R3, focused the Toyo (with the lens stopped down and without using a loupe) and pressed the shutter. Pulled my film holder and closed the curtains to darken the room. Then in my walk-in closet, I loaded the Stearman tank and went out to the garage.

Since I’d had good luck using the Cinestill Df96 monobath for HP5+ and Tri-X, I assumed it would work on the Fomapan. It didn’t. After going through the development process, I was pretty disappointed with my first shot.

Initial disappointment

The good news was there was an image on the film. The bad news is evident.

I asked around and decided that the Df96 monobath wasn’t likely going to do the trick, so I ran back to Blue Moon and picked up some Kodak chemistry. I don’t recall mixing D-76 from powder 50 years ago but the process was relatively easy. I did also end up picking up some brown plastic gallon jugs to store my mixed developer and fix. I also picked up a gallon glass jar to do the mixing.

I also decided that the way I illuminated the first attempt for scanning was ad hoc and purchased a real light tablet.

Calendar is now around early July and I figured that I’d take some outdoor test shots around the yard before driving up to the mountain for some real photographs. So, I set-up the tripod just outside the garage and pointed the camera at a house across the street and only exposed two sheets.

Using the freshly mixed D-76, Kodak Indicator Stop and Kodak fixer I developed the shots. While the 6.5 minutes of development time was fine, I didn’t stop or fix long enough resulting is some blue on the negatives. Luckily the blue disappeared when I converted the color raw file to monochrome.

Inadequate Stop and Fix (scale on right from light tablet)

These first test shots were on the soft side. It seems that when I originally got the camera, I decided that I needed to clean the ground glass. I took it apart to clean the back and separated the glass from the Fresnel lens. Having had some help determining that this was a possible problem I verified that the Fresnel and ground glass sandwich was assembled correctly and facing the right way in the camera. I shot the neighbor’s house again. This time I actually focused with the lens wide open and used a little Bausch + Lomb 4x loupe. I also used a specially purchased sheet of dark cloth to use as a dark hood over my head while focusing. These shots were also soft.

Focus was on the garage door behind the light pole

I believe the above was exposed for 1/60th second at f/8.

It was suggested that perhaps my little B+L loupe would better be replaced by something larger. Another few dollars to Amazon for a larger loupe.

Carson 4.5x loupe

In an effort to shoot something closer with text, I decided my next test would be of our neighborhood mailbox. I have been using my Sony a7R3 set to ISO 100 in aperture priority to get an approximate shutter speed. I think this mailbox shot was exposed for 1/30th second at f/32. Focusing was wide open using the big loupe. I was happy with this one. I’m not doing a great job of recording my exposure data (the Toyo doesn’t write EXIF to the film).

Numbered Mailbox Slots

The scanning process seems to go relatively well using the HSK A4 light pad and my tripod mounted a7R3. The 4 x 5 sheets dry flat hanging in my garage and lay flat on the light pad and the focus highlighting does a good job of letting me know I’m getting a good shot with the macro lens. Ideally I’d have a better configuration to ensure that the sensor plane is parallel to the light table/negative plane.

Sony a7R3, tripod, negative and light table
Focus highlighting and edge of light table

Time to head up the mountain for four exposures of real photographs. Tuesday, 29 July dawned sunny and bright with an estimated afternoon temperature of approximately 90 degrees Fahrenheit (or 32 degrees Celsius) and my wife was having lunch with a friend and wouldn’t miss me.

There are a couple of spots where I like to shoot the mountain. On my first shot I forgot to stop down after focusing. I think I need a sequenced checklist. The dark cloth that I use as a hood while focusing blows all over the place in windy conditions. I may attach a piece of Velcro to the cold shoe location and to the dark cloth for future shoots.

I finally got a shot of the mountain taken from the White River Sno Park (no snow there in July). If you look at the lower left of the slope you might be able to see the chair lift towers at Timberline Ski Resort. The lodge at Timberline was used for the exterior shots of the lodge in the 1980 film The Shining.

Mount Hood – 11,249 ft (3425.6 m)

In my efforts to share these 4 x 5 images I have predominantly used the full width of the 5″ frame however I have discovered that the combination of the detail captured by the film and the 42mp resolution of the camera used to scan the negatives allows me to use a tighter crop and show more detail without posting huge files. This next image is a tighter crop of the above. 4 x 5 sure captures the detail!

 

Summary

Between forgetting to close the aperture after focusing, not stopping down after focusing, forgetting to pull the dark slide before shooting, forgetting to re-insert the dark slide after shooting, I think I’ve probably made every mistake in the book. Anyone thinking about large format will find a wealth of information in the following titles: Using the View Camera by Steve Simmons and View Camera Technique by Leslie Stroebel (5th, 6th or 7th edition).

Helpful References

It has been a long process, and the journey is the reward (or so they say). I found that I needed quite a bit more than a camera and lens. In the six months that I’ve been fooling with this, I have in fact shot other things and have taken several short local trips. My wife and I drove down the Oregon coast to northern California to visit Redwoods National Park. I took the Nikon FE along on that trip. I don’t see myself ever shooting the Toyo on a trip. Of the fifty sheets of Fomapan, I’ve taken 15 exposures and wasted 3 sheets but I’m planning to shoot the rest.

I also left the big Carson loupe behind up on the mountain. They are relatively inexpensive and all I seem to do is spend money in search of photographic Nirvana. Hopefully this article will answer a few questions for anyone who has been on the fence on large format.

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About The Author

By Gary Smith
Gary has been shooting photographs for 50+ years using a variety of film and digital cameras. For a time, he was employed in the software industry as an interface designer. He has once again been shooting film on a variety of cameras he was never able to own 50 years ago and has begun developing and scanning both black and white and color films during the past 14 months. He lives in the state of Oregon in the Pacific Northwest area of the USA.
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Comments

Eric Rose on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

Welcome the world of LF madness Gary!! Your journey mirrors I would suspect 99% of newbie LF shooters. Mine included lol. Keep at it!! Keep us updated with your results going forward.
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Eric Rose on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

I think my original comment got lost in the interwebs somewhere lol. If it shows up feel free to delete the dup. I just wanted to welcome you to the madness that is called LF photography. I must admit it's VERY addictive. Thankfully prices have come down on the essential bits and pieces one needs to fully enjoy it. Your journey mirrors I would suspect 99% of newbie LF shooters. And if your like me, a bit dotty, I still forget to do some things. Up on a meadow in the Rockies near Lake Louise are a pair of my reading glasses are enjoying big outdoors.

I loved your article, please keep us updated on your adventures!

Eric
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

Thanks Eric! Both of your comments showed up. Sometimes the various servers between here and there have congestive bit blocking. What I think I need to do next is figure out when/where it makes sense to drag the beast out. I'm afraid that unless I keep shooting with it I'll never get the specific sequence of steps burned into my brain.

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Eric Rose replied:

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

PROJECTS!!! Create a project that will take you at least a couple of months to complete the shooting. That's the best advice I can give you. Eric

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

Thanks Eric. I have two 35mm projects going at the moment on 4 cameras. Once they're done maybe I'll revisit the Toyo.

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Jalan on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

Thanks for sharing your journey Gary! LF photography is so satisfying - including the learning curve. I currently do wet plate collodion photography with 8x10 inch and 12x12 inch cameras. The things I love about film are magnified by wet plate collodion. I mix up all my chemicals, I make the glass plates, I coat and sensitize & expose and develop. So everything, except the raw chemicals, is hand made and unique - each plate is one of a kind. Slow, sometimes frustrating, but always amazing to see the image appear in the developing and fixing!
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 05/09/2025

Jalan, I'd love to read an article from you on your wet-plate process (as well as see some wet-plate images).

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Tony Warren on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Very reminiscent of my own experiences Gary, now in the past as age has made the physical side of LF beyond me. But it is very satisfying to eventually master the beast as you have found and start to produce some good results.

I used Foma 100 very successfully with Rodinal, a developer that is so convenient and economic, and seems to last forever.

The goof you didn't mention is exposing the same side of the slide twice. I must say one of my best results came this way.

Good to read about your positive experiences.
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Thanks Tony! I don't think that I ever made a double exposure but I likely made every other goof! I never used Rodinal. I suspect it has to do with the availability of Kodak chemistry over here.

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Geoff Chaplin on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Well done Gary! Yes there are so many mistakes you can make on route - double exposures after forgetting to turn the dark slide round, forgetting to stop down, sagging tripod legs or head, forgetting to close the shutter after focus but before exposure, as well as mis-setting aperture or shutter speed. As you showed a 42mpxl capture of a full 4x5 frame fails to show anything like the level of detail on the negative - wet process printing and hanging on the wall is the way to go! Sorry internet.

I'm envious of your developing tank, I've always used open trays in absolute darkness. If you can give pyro developer a try, but you won't get the full benefit until you make wet process prints - even if only contacts.

Not taking the Toyo on a trip - shame on you!! But I suppose you've got mountains by the back door. I took an 8x10 to Venice ...... together with two assistants, so I can actually sympathise.
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Gary Smith on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Thanks for your comments Geoff! I do wish now that I could make wet prints like in the old days. I feel that while convenient and fast, scans just don't allow me to experience the benefits of MF or LF. I don't see a wet darkroom and enlarger in my future (no place to put one).

I might take the Toyo out on longer trips but it would certainly be nice to have assistants.

I will probably make a sequence check list.
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Jeffery Luhn on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Gary, welcome to large format. When everything goes right, those negatives are amazing. I'd like to suggest a few things:
Development:
1- I have a Yankee tank that's designed to take 12 sheets, but I've loaded an additional 12 sheets, totaling 24, by loading two sheets in one slot back to back. It's not the easiest tank to load, but once it's loaded you can turn on the lights because the tank is light tight.
2- Another way to process up to 12 sheets at a time easily is to do them in open trays. The Anchor company makes glass bread pans that work great. The edges of the pan get slightly more narrow at the bottom to aid in the release of bread loaves, and this is ideal for processing 4x5 sheets because the film never touches the bottom of the pan. The technique involves 4 pans. First is a water bath. You carefully put each sheet into the water face down one by one. Once they're all in, you carefully take the bottom one and place it on top. Always deal from the bottom of the deck. When the sheets are fully wet and slippery, move the sheets, one by one, into the developer. Careful never to let the corner of the film strike another sheet. Continuously dealing form the bottom of the deck, you keep the sheets in constant motion. Because the development time can be inconsistent due to the time it takes to start and stop development, using diluted developer with longer times is recommended. D-76 at 1:1, HC-110 at dilution H, or Rodinal at 1:50 works fine. After development proceed to stop and fix with the same technique. I prefer this approach with small batches up to 12 because the bread pans don't need as much solution as a 56 ounce Yankee tank. Rodinal is the cheapest developer. About $1 a batch.
Note: Mix your solutions with distilled water to avoid grit. All public water systems have grit and the constant agitation with gritty water will result in scratches!
Bringing more film with you: I have 36 holders and of course I never shoot all of them on one trip, but I have shot more than 20. It's a lot of work to shoot LF in the wild, so I want lots of images. Besides my three dozen holders, I have two Grafmatic backs that hold six sheets each. These holders are a very clever invention! With my WillTravel 4x5 with it's 65mm lens and two Grafmatic backs, I can bring the whole kit in a tiny shoulder bag.
I hope you find these comments useful. KEEP SHOOTING!!!! It gets to be second nature after a while!
Jeffery
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Thanks for your comments Jeffrey! I kind of thought that matching my film holder capacity to my tank capacity made sense but perhaps I ought to investigate the Yankee tank. I don't have the room to do open tray development, so that's not really an option. I'll check out the WillTravel body (I already knew about the clever Grafmatic backs but how they actually work eluded me). Being able to shoot more than 4 exposures at a pop would help I suspect.

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Apology for misspelling your name repeatedly!

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Jeffrey, I took a look at the WillTravel gizmo as well as the Yankee box. I would think with the Grafmatic back you'd be able to fill the Yankee box easily. It looks to be a quite portable camera.

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David Pauley on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Gary, I thoroughly enjoyed reading about your experience with LF. As others have said your frustrations track very much with my own cock-ups, though even after 3 years plus with a Chamonix 4x5 I still feel like a beginner. The only recent 4x5 photo I've taken was a "studio" portrait (using strobe) of my daughter before she left for college last month. I made a couple of familiar mistakes along the way -- left the lens open in focusing mode and ruined a sheet -- but she was forgiving and the results, printed in the darkroom on 11x14 paper, were great. (With that big negative I could in theory have gone much larger). I really like your Mount Hood shot which shows what all the fuss is about! Good luck and happy continued shooting! David
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

David! So you're telling me that in three years I can still look forward to silly mistakes? Not very encouraging... I have enjoyed my learning experiences with all of the film cameras that I've added over the last couple of years. Thanks for reading and sharing your experiences!

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Ibraar Hussain on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Really enjoyed this Gary ! It’s inspirational as I’ve been itching to try LF for many years but have always been scared off or been feeling too inadequate and not up to it.
Thanks for detailing Your whole journey and process - I still don’t feel I’ll be able to do what you did - and your results are fantastic
I usually look at Matt Osbourne when drunk on a Friday night ;)
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

You might take a look at the WillTravel camera that Jeffrey mentioned. That looks to be a much easier LF experience. I think my brush with LF was triggered by a desire to add a LF field camera to my "collection" and I shoot all of the gear that I collect. Matt seems to have a cool gig going with his model photography... :-)

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Alexander Seidler on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

Great LF story, Gray keep on shooting !
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 06/09/2025

It has been a journey that still has a long road ahead before I get comfortable. It's funny that while shooting and developing test shots of 4 x 5 film, I got very comfortable with my development process. Almost felt like 50 years ago when I could develop without thinking. Thanks for reading and commenting Alexander!

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Simon Foale on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 07/09/2025

Sounds like a terrific adventure Gary. I'm sure you are going to have loads of fun with your 4x5 system. It's the tilt and shift movements that I think really make the system attractive, so I'm looking forward to your report on experimenting with those. I'm sticking with 6x9cm as my largest format for the moment, as that is the largest size I can scan.
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 07/09/2025

Hi Simon, I actually did some tilting when I wasn't getting sharp images of the neighbor's house however since my ground glass and Fresnel were still not together correctly it didn't help. It has been an adventure. Thanks for reading and for your comments.

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Jeffery Luhn on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 10/09/2025

Just a word about the shifts and tilts of the view camera.
I've pasted in a link that's a short overview of the benefits of view camera movements.
https://www.opticsforhire.com/blog/scheimpflug-principle/
In general, a little correction goes a long way. Way back in 1970 when I was a student at Laney Trade School in Oakland, our brilliant instructor, William High, gave us a 'data sheet' for every assignment. The assignments for view camera movements were numerous.
In short: The front lens standard controls depth of field and the back film standard controls perspective. Other than table top product photography, it's rare to use anything but the slightest movements on both standards. For landscapes, a couple of degrees of downward tilt of the lens board gives you depth of field from near to far, especially when stopped down. It's common for first time users to make radical lens and back movements, often throwing mountain tops and sky into super fuzziness. What a mess! Just a couple of degrees of downward lens tilt and a single degree of backward back tilt will allow the planes of these standards to intersect, all be it in the far virtual distance. That's adequate. Reversing the approach will make a cityscape look like a miniature model train layout. Cute, but not very practical. In closing, don't go overboard. The scheimpflug principle says that the film plane, the lens plane, and the area of selected focus need to intersect. In my opinion, far away from the camera is preferred.
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 10/09/2025

Thanks Jeffery! (see, I can spell your name right given enough time) I think I tried some tilt on one of my set-ups on the neighbor's house. Perhaps adding a tilt lens to one of my other rigs would give me something smaller to experiment with.

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Michael Jardine on Slowly stumbling into large format

Comment posted: 15/09/2025

"I think I’ve probably made every mistake in the book."- that's fighting talk... I think I've just about covered off the basics, say the first half of Chapter One! Seriously, 4x5 is so much fun, and I haven't found the time in the last few years since I bought a cheap MPP Micro-Technical 4x5 (a British Linhof copy, much like a Speed Graphic... because I wanted lens movements and I was too mean to buy a tilt-shift lens for a normal camera), to do it justice and make more and bigger mistakes.

The Carson loupes are great for negs on a lightbox, but I found a Silvestri 4x (on which you can swap the translucent bottom for an opaque one) to be superior for focussing the beast.

Thanks for the links to the great YouTube videos by the way, which have me planning excursions which won't be kind to my back and shoulders, and best of luck to you!
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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 15/09/2025

Thanks for your comments Michael! I do think I've made quite a few blunders so far. Maybe I mistakenly thought I'd made them all? One link you'll need to be careful with: the link to Blue Moon. It could get expensive for you...

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