Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

By Scott Ferguson

Part 1 — Pushing One Stop in Santa Monica

I took a quick trip to Los Angeles in late September and it was the first time I’ve visited the West Coast since taking up film still photography.  I was excited to shoot in a new environment that is very different from either the Canadian Rockies or New York, so I brought lots of film.

For my first outing, I took a walk to the Palisades Park in Santa Monica, which is a lovely spot on a bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  The M3 was loaded with Ilford Pan F Plus;  I have a pretty big supply of that stock in 35mm that has been in the fridge for over a year. I stocked up on it in a rush of enthusiasm after some exciting early results doing medium format landscapes up in Canada.  I love the look of that film, but found myself hesitating to load it on 35mm rolls with 36 exposures because I was afraid I would end up missing something cool if I still had it in the camera on a day or location where I didn’t have enough light.   Anticipating some nice bright California sunlight, I brought 5 or 6 rolls with me.

As it happened, when I finally had time to do some shooting, it was a little overcast and getting dusky.  So I decided to try pushing one stop to 100.

And all I could say about the first shot on the roll is, “Wow!”

FIG TREE, Leica M3, Voigtlander Color Skopar 28mm f3.5, Ilford Pan F Plus @ 100

There is an ancient Moreton Bay Fig Tree in the hotel driveway that was the first thing to shoot as I stepped out of the lobby.  I think the Pan F Plus looks amazing, as does this extraordinary tree.  The grain is incredibly fine, even pushed a stop, and there is a real sense of depth and dimensionality to the frame.  The dynamic range is terrific going from deep black shadows to an almost blown out background, while smoothly covering the various shades of grey on the undulating roots and branches of this stunning tree.

CAMERA OBSCURA, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2 with Leica Yellow/Green Filter, Ilford Pan F Plus @ 100

For my first stop in Palisades Park, I couldn’t resist shooting the Camera Obscura, an attraction on the bluff overlooking the Pacific Ocean.  It’s essentially a pinhole camera large enough to hold 10 or 15 people. It opened in 1899, perhaps anticipating the arrival of the motion picture industry on the West Coast about a decade later.   Unfortunately it has yet to reopen after COVID, so I could only shoot it from the outside.  I think it’s a little too quiet and low tech to compete for attention in 21st century Los Angeles; according to the most recently available data it was attracting as few as 40 people a week before it closed. I visited it pre-Covid while it was still open to the public and it’s pretty cool to see the ocean and palm trees reflected on the walls of the dim room.  It feels kind of like you’re inside Plato’s famous cave.*

I met this fellow from France and grabbed a couple of portraits of him enjoying the sun going down over the Pacific on his last evening in Los Angeles.

THE VISITOR, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2 with Leica Yellow/Green Filter, Ilford Pan F Plus @ 100
THE VISITOR, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2 with Leica Yellow/Green Filter, Ilford Pan F Plus @ 100

I love these portraits as well as the featured image.  The look really says ‘film’ to me; again, the fine grain and subtle gradations of the grey tones are really impressive.  Despite having contemporary clothing and hair, these portraits also have something of a timeless feel, perhaps due in part to being shot in monochrome on a 1949 Leica lens.  I was going wide open in the fading light and there is something interesting going on with the bokeh here that might feel a little like a time machine.

Seeing these results, my attitude is shifting from thinking of Pan F Plus as a film I want to ‘use up’ to one of the more exciting options I’ve tried.

TECHNICAL ADJUSTMENT, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2 with Leica Yellow/Green Filter, Ilford Pan F Plus @ 100

Like New York, LA has a fair amount of interesting characters out and about.  I was hesitant to shoot this couple out of respect for the woman in the wheelchair’s condition until I realized that she was a mannequin.  The fellow fiddling with the wiring had some kind of spiel where he would talk to people he met on the bluff about AI and God and used ventriloquism to answer questions.

But I didn’t stick around long enough to find out the details of his message, the sun was going down!

PALISADES PARK BLUFF, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2 with Leica Ilford Pan F Plus @ 100

This view of the edge of the bluff going down to the beach caught my eye.  I was definitely losing the light — going handheld, the details are a little soft and you can see the motion blur on the cars on the PCH as I slowed down the shutter to get a decent exposure.  Again, this feels like it could have been taken any time in the last 40-50 years.  I love LA, but sometimes it does feel a little precarious and this shot captures the feel of what underlies the beautiful and seductive surface.

Based on this roll, Pan F Plus is brilliant when pushed a stop, and I can’t wait to shoot more.  I think I love it!

Part 2 — Pushing Two Stops in Manhattan

This post started as a “Five Frames” post because I was so impressed by the results of pushing one stop in California.  It helps a lot to have interesting people and places to shoot, but the quality of the film was amazing.  So amazing, I decided to try pushing two stops when I got back to New York.

I was meeting my son to see One Battle After Another (highly recommended), and had about an hour at my favorite time of day for shooting, the late afternoon light.  It was beautiful and I stopped by my favorite place on the East Coast for interesting people, Washington Square Park.

PARK PORTRAIT, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200

I saw this gentleman on my way into the park and asked him for a photo.  There was a gap in the tree branches that was lighting him against the otherwise shady area he was sitting in.  This shot would test the dynamic range of most films, the inherent contrast of the frame in that light is off the charts.  But I really like the quality of Pan F Plus here; his full white beard is pretty much blown out, but I love the way he kind of glows against the deep shadows of the background.

PARK PORTRAIT, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200

Next I saw this woman who was very focused on whatever she was listening to, but nice enough to agree to a shot.  Here again, with very strong side light and dark clothing and skin tones, I’m pushing to the edge of the film’s dynamic range, but I think it performs well. I like the sense of a strong, thoughtful and confident personality captured here, which kind of works with a bit of a chiarscuro look — plus she wasn’t going to move on my account.

PARK COUPLE, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200Pan F Plus @ 200

Here I think I caught a nice moment and was a little more successful in finding an angle to get some highlights from the beautiful sunlight but expose the skin tones in a way that isn’t all bright whites and shadow black — a softer look for a softer moment.

PARK PEOPLE, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200

This shot was more or less about practicing shooting people in strong backlight, something I have often struggled with as I learn to find the sweet spot where I can get the kick from the sun without silhouetting the people.  I was never able to master this with cameras that set exposure automatically because I was letting the camera do the thinking for me.  And those cameras were thinking of underexposing backlit people whether I liked that idea or not.  Switching to all manual cameras led me to do the homework, think for myself and meter for the human being(s) in the shot, with improving results as I develop a better eye for the right angle to balance skin tones and highlights.

This fellow was happy to let me take a shot of him with his parrot, but not at the cost of interrupting his conversation.

MAN WITH PARROT, Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200

I couldn’t hit a moment when the man and the parrot were looking in the same direction, but after a bit of fiddling with exposure in Lightroom I like the way the man, and especially the white parrot, pop against the dark background of the pavement and the trees.  And I always love the deep rich blacks that you get on Pan F Plus!

Toward the end of the roll, I grabbed a few shots of this interesting fellow who was photographing himself doing some kind of lip-synching performance.  He nodded that it was ok for me to take a few shots without interrupting what he was doing.

MAKING CONTENT 1, PARK Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200
MAKING CONTENT 2, PARK Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200
MAKING CONTENT 3, PARK Leica M3, Leitz Summitar 50mm f2, Pan F Plus @ 200

We had a quick chat after we were both finished shooting, and when I asked what he was up to, he said, “Making content” and left it at that.  I really like these shots and the sense of personality that comes through as this young man projects his image for the benefit of his camera and whoever might end up viewing his content.

I also think the quality of the Pan F Plus is really great, whether pushing one or two stops.   When I look at the two rolls side by side, the New York shots have stronger contrast and possibly a tiny bit more grain, but it’s hard to tell where the film stock stops and the quality of the light begins when comparing shots in California pushed one stop on a mostly overcast evening to shots in New York pushed two stops on a bright sunny evening.

In any event, I think they both look great and I’m excited to keep shooting with Pan F Plus and feel like I can be a little freer about when I load it in different kinds of weather and shooting situations.  I think its a really strong film and great for doing ‘creative’ shooting like portraits, landscapes and ‘art’ shots with a timeless classic look, plus with the versatility I’ve discovered when pushing, it is a solid option for ‘street’ and/or reportage style shooting.  I’ve always really liked this film and knowing I can push and still get great results moves it toward the top of the list of films I want to shoot.

* My aside comparing the inside of a camera obscura to Plato’s Allegory of the Cave got me interested in whether the ancient Greeks, and possibly Plato, were aware of the phenomenon of the camera obscura.  Some very quick web searching got conflicting results from Google AI.  One one hand, when I asked if the ancient Greeks were aware of the camera obscura I got a strong ‘yes’, and one of the examples cited the fact that Plato’s famous pupil Aristotle actually built a camera obscura.  But when I asked directly if the camera obscura inspired the Allegory of the Cave, AI gave a very confident ‘no’, noting that it was not developed until centuries after the Allegory of the Cave.  Since Aristotle studied with Plato as a young man, both answers can’t be true, even if Plato wasn’t around by the time Aristotle built his.  I think I might need to dig a little deeper than Google AI — perhaps actually reading about it in Plato would be a good start — but it’s very interesting that the ancient Greeks were aware of the camera obscura!

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About The Author

By Scott Ferguson
Scott Ferguson is an independent film and television producer known for such films as Brokeback Mountain, Only Lovers Left Alive and The People vs. Larry Flynt, and the television shows The Night Of and Succession. While working around cameras and recorded images for his entire career, shooting still photography with vintage all manual cameras is a new and very stimulating passion.
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Comments

Curtis Heikkinen on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

A most enjoyable read, Scott! I always enjoy your pieces and your photography. I always learn something. Thanks for putting this together!
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Thank you Curtis! I'm glad you like them, I've been having a lot of fun shooting them/writing them. Best, s

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Gary Smith on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Do you have your film shots wet-printed in a darkroom (as opposed to getting digital prints from scans)? Are you developing your film yourself?

I'm just looking for clues why you would use a slow film and push rather than a faster film.

Great shots Scott!
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Hey Gary, My post workflow is to drop the exposed negatives off at a lab in Brooklyn, Photo Life, which I've been using since I got back to New York. The process the negative and then do digital scans, high res TIFFs, which they send to me via email. Eventually, I might want to expand my practice to do my own processing, but I'm not quite there yet and have been pretty happy with the lab. I know pushing a slow film is a bit counterintuitive and came about as a bit of a happy accident for me. As I mentioned in the post, I had an oversupply of Pan F Plus that has been in the fridge for about a year because I over bought in a rush of early enthusiasm after some early landscapes in Canada. I had taken it to California in hopes of being able to use it in bright sunny conditions. As it happened, the evening I took it out was overcast, so I decided to try pushing it, as the camera was already loaded. I've gotten much less shy about pushing film when it helps over the last 6 months or so and I really like the way Pan F looks. Whether at box speed or pushed a stop or two, it has a bit of a different feel to me than my other favorite 100 or 200 ISO b&w stocks. So I'm kind of happy to push it from time to time when I want that look but might not be shooting in high sun.

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

I've been developing my film for the last two years (after having my own darkroom 50 years ago). As I shoot less film it will likely start going back to a lab (I've been using THE DARKROOM in California). I'm not "religious" about film. I'll digitally remove grain from grainy film shots and add grain to clean digital shots. I think unless you are doing your own wet prints from negatives you can do almost everything else with s/w.

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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

That's great! I think I want to get a little more experience at shooting before getting into processing, but have gotten tons of encouragement here on 35mmc. I might benefit from a class at some point and working with other people to get started. I've used the Darkroom and have a lot of respect for their operation and contribution to film shooting culture here, but I didn't like the results as much as what I've been getting here in NYC at Photolife. I think I've gotten better at shooting, so that probably contributes to better looking scans, but I've been pretty impressed with the work they do at the small family owned lab here.

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Christopher Welch on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Thanks for sharing your experience with Pan F Scott. I was wondering what developer you used for this film stock.
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Hi Christopher, I believe they use Kodak TMax. I called the lab, Photo Life in Brooklyn, to ask them that a few months ago on another post on 35mmc, and that's to the best of my recollection. I've been pleased with the quality and consistency of their results since I started going there.

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Russ Rosener on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Great portraits! You really are good at engaging people without being obtrusive.
I have two technical questions:
What developer was used to push Pan F and get these fantastic results?
Was the lens you used a Leitz 50mm Summitar? I have one of a similar late 1940s and would not trade it for the most modern Summicron.
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 05/11/2025

Hi Russ, Thanks so much! It's kind of hard to believe I was too shy to ask people for a shot back in May when I started focusing on 'street photography'. A big inspiration for me in terms of how I relate to the people I'm shooting was meeting Jamel Shabazz, a genius level street photographer who has an amazing skill for connecting with the people he shoots. I believe the lab uses Kodak TMax for processing black & white, and they do an amazing job. If you are in NYC I highly recommend them -- Photo Life on Nostrand Ave in Brooklyn. Yes, the 50mm Summitar f2 is my favorite 'street' lens. I love the way it shoots in both b&w and color, and also that it is super compact when collapsed. I also think it looks just odd enough, somewhere between steampunk and 50's engineer on vacation, to make it a bit of a conversation piece while I'm engaging with people. I like telling them it's from 1949 and showing them how it collapses as a bit of an ice breaker when needed. I also have a Summicron dual range and a Summilux, and I tend to use the Summicron if I want to shoot something very close up like flowers, and the Summilux if I'm going out in low light, but my default and 'desert island' 50mm is definitely the Summitar! Late 40's is the way to go, when they had added lens coating, but still had the ten bladed aperture. Glad you like it too!

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Walter Reumkens on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Great portraits, interesting photos and text. But weren't you lucky that it clouded over in Los Angeles and it got later in the day? The PanF50 works with very high contrast and high-contrast situations (midday sun!) should definitely be avoided, as there is a risk of blown-out highlights and shadows. At least that's what one of the best specialist labs in Germany, MeinFilmLab, says. So at this time of day, I often use Ilford HP5+ or, for colour, Kodak Ultramax 400. But I don't have a lot of experience, so I always find articles like yours very informative. Thanks, Scott.
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Hey Walter, That is very interesting and cool that you have such a sophisticated lab! I don't know if I was lucky that it got later in the day, that was the only free time I had for some shooting, but it's also a choice. I don't really like shooting in the high midday sun, so tend to avoid it as much as possible. Morning and evening light are beautiful to me and that's when I try to do most of my shooting -- more often in the evening that the am, but I did get some pretty nice color shots on the beach around 7am that trip. Overcast soft light is also very nice, but I don't mind shooting in direct sun, but again prefer it when the sun is lower in the sky. I've been shooting a fair amount of the Ilford Delta stocsk lately, but pleasantly discovered that I really like the Kentmere stocks, which come at a nice discount. I like the Portra stocks for color, but also found that Fujifilm 400 performs quite nicely. I had never thought about switching film stocks based on time of day, your thought of shooting HP5 and Ultramaxx in midday is very interesting indeed. I also have a couple of slightly unconventional stocks extremely contrasty stocks, Rollei Blackbird and Rollei Retro 80S, that I really like when I get it right, but they can be a bit of a mess on days when I don't. Your comment has given me some food for thought on how and when best to use them. I suspect you have as much or more experience than I do -- I just started shooting film again about 18 months ago and I'm sharing my learning curve here of 35mmc because I find that I learn so much from my fellow photographers like you! Thanks Walter! s

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Thanks for your reply, Scott, but I'm coming off too well in the assessment here. I hope to learn a lot here at 35mmc and refresh my knowledge. When I started out in the late 1970s, I was surprised that PAN-F with ISO 50 was recommended for shooting in fog. Where it's usually dark in that kind of weather. Due to its very high contrast behaviour, a 50 film is very well suited to better reproduce the minimal nuances of fog. So 50 ASA and get on the tripod early. It's worth reading reports and books on the subject. Recently, I've also been using reflected light metering more often for external exposure metering instead of the usual reflected light metering used by modern cameras. I tend to use a spot meter from Pentax or Sekonic. Thank you, have a nice day, and good light for more rolls of film.

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Something went wrong with the translation. I usually measure the ambient light, i.e. I take a light reading with a dome. This is in contrast to the usual object measurement (reflected light) used by modern cameras. Or, depending on the subject, I also use spot metering, as I do with my older Pentax Spotmeter V or Pentax Digital Spotmeter.

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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Hey Walter, I find this conversation very interesting. If you look at my history on 35mmc, this spring/summer I did an extensive 'survey' of 30 different b&w emulsions, but I didn't have the expert guidance and any good sources to clue me in to ideas like shooting Pan F 50 in the fog -- I just went out and shot with a variety of different films and came to my own conclusions in a 'self-taught' manner. That's really what I was doing here with Pan F Plus -- shooting it because I had some on hand and discovering how much I liked it because of how much I liked the photos. If you've come across some useful and interesting written sources on matching up film stocks to either lighting conditions and/or for different subject, e.g., portraits vs. landscapes vs. architecture, I'd be really interested to check them out! Regarding metering, I am not a fan of through the lens metering and much prefer using a handheld external meter at the cost of an additional piece of gear to misplace and fumble around for in a coat pocket. I have a Sekonic incident mater with a dome that I think is pretty good for shooting people and getting general readings, but I like using a spot meter even more because I can make much more specific decisions about exposure by either taking multiple readings to think about shadows vs. highlights or choosing a very specific part of the frame I want to expose for. I've been using a Spotmeter V for about a year, but it's big and awkward and too easy to drop, and not particularly useful in low light when it's hard to see the needle, so recently picked up a Pentax Digital Spotmeter, which feels a little easier to slip in a pocket and more useful after dark. For what it's worth, here is a link to Part 5 of my B&W survey here on 35mmc, which also has links to parts 1-4. It tries to give an overview of what I learned from trying out 30 different stocks, but from an enthusiast's point of view from just trying things out as opposed to the kind of sophisticated analysis that you've gotten from your labs and books. https://www.35mmc.com/26/08/2025/in-search-of-darkness-and-light-black-white-film-stocks-part-5-the-conclusion/

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Danke für den Austausch, deine Artikel werde ich mir genau ansehen. Habe schon mal einen Blick reiungeworfen, klasse Arbeit! At the end of the 1970s, Ilford distributed a book containing technical information about its films and developers. Today, this information is probably available in data sheets. The book was supplemented with sample images that allowed readers to recognise the different film characteristics. Depending on the sensitivity, the contrast levels are steeper or flatter. The character also changes with the developer. This book is probably no longer available today. However, for analogue photographers, I can recommend Andreas Feininger's book, The Complete Photographer, Revised Edition, even though it is very old. It was published in the USA, and I have the 8th edition of the German version from Heyne Verlag. It is a classic.

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Here is the link to the laboratory in Germany that I mentioned: https://www.meinfilmlab.de/en/ Tips and recommendations on film use appear regularly. These are tailored to the laboratory's own workflow, but can also be applied elsewhere. The owner takes the photographs himself and there are current photos (blog) from Normandy/FR.

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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Thanks so much for your really interesting feedback and tips on where to go for more information! I'm really interested in going a little deeper into matching film stocks into the prevailing conditions, and I don't know if going with Pan F Plus in overcast weather would have come to me intuitively, but now I'm dying to try it! I'd also be interested in your favorite 'sunny day' choices. Thanks, Walter!

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Thanks Scott, it was my pleasure. I also see the blog as a place for exchange. I haven't exposed nearly as many types of film as you have recently. When I started in 1975, I mostly shot on Fujifilm reversal film. I currently take most of my photos with various digital cameras. I have all sensor sizes in digital, with the exception of medium format. Every now and then, I reach for an analogue camera and usually use the Fujifilm C200 or Kodak Ultramax 400. I'm happy with it and have also saved money compared to Portra and Ektar. Now I use Kodak Gold 200, which is also available as roll film. The C200 was temporarily unavailable, and I have read that Fujifilm 200 is supposed to be identical to Gold 200. At least the barcode on the rolls is identical. I used Ultramax 400 in low light, but recently I have been using it in the midday sun. On 17 November 2025, I will post a report here on 35mmc with photos taken with it and a Nikon F2 Eye. I exposed the Ultramax 400 at ASA 200. The colours become more pastel-like, but you shouldn't overexpose it any more than that, as it becomes grainier and the colours turn more reddish. I recently exposed several rolls of 120 roll film with Ilford HP5 Plus at box speed 400, even in full sun with strong shadows. I am also satisfied with the results here. I also use Ilford XP2 Super 400, which I expose at ASA 250.

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Hier noch ein Link zum Ilford PAN-F: https://analoge-fotografie.net/blog/ilford-pan-f/

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Walter Reumkens replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Here is the article in English: https://analoge-fotografie.net/en/ilford-pan-f-plus/

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David Pauley on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Hi Scott, thanks for this excellent reflection and illustration of work on an emulsion that I rarely use. (But reading this my resistance may change). I agree that there is a special signature to that film stock -- the rich blacks , maybe? -- that sets it apart. Am sure the lack of grain is also a big factor, even more evident perhaps with wet printing. Your portraits are wonderful; I especially love the series of the French guy in Los Angeles. There's a quiet sweetness in his eyes that comes through abundantly. The "woman" in the wheelchair is quite arresting...didn't know what to make of "her" until I read your description.
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Thanks David! The rich blacks are definitely a huge part of the appeal, along with the superfine grain, but I think maybe there's another factor in terms of how smoothly Pan F Plus moves along the grey scale with lovely subtle gradations of grey tones, like on the trunk of that crazy fig tree or on the shadows and highlights on that French visitor's face. It feel like PanF on shots like that has 'micro' zones between the traditional 11 tones on the grey scale, maybe 22 or 44 mini zones, and a very smooth curve transitioning from one micro zone to the next. I don't have any science or facts on this, just trying to describe how I see some of those shots, but I do feel that is part of its unique look. I definitely want to shoot more Pan F Plus going forward!

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Ibraar Hussain on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Really enjoyed this so I read and re read it. Such a pleasant walk and inspirational, I’ve not done anything like this for a while.
I really like Pan F plus - it’s just a wonderful film. You have got beautiful tones and lush blacks with this - great work man.!
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 06/11/2025

Thanks Ibraar! Yes, Pan F Plus is a really interesting stock, and Santa Monica is a fun place to shoot. All best, s

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Geoff Chaplin on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 07/11/2025

Thanks Scott, interesting read and results and many excellent images. For me a one stop push is acceptable, but two is a step too far (but see below). The fig tree image is where PanF shines. I too love PanF - ideally at 50 and exposed for the highlights burying the darks for the chiaroscuro effect. I think the portrait of the lady with the love shades would work well for me tightly cropped around her head.
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 07/11/2025

Thanks Geoff, I love learning from my fellow photographers here, and this is really valuable information and ideas to try out. I really like Pan F Plus and was reasonably happy with the 2 stop roll and put the differences down more to the greater contrast in the environment I was shooting, but excited to learn how to get the most out of it, because it's a really interesting and impressive stock! Thanks, s

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Jeffery Luhn on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 08/11/2025

Hi Scott,
I always enjoy seeing your work. You have a good rapport with your subjects.
The one stop pushing slow films with flat lighting and a slight boost in developing is going to yield long scale with no loss in shadow detail. The two stop push in bright sun is going to render some difficult negatives for printing, even from scans. Slow emulsions are already contrasty, and that combo compounds things. There is a developer that will help to give a good result: PYRO CMK. Cheap, and easy to work with. Very compensating. You must use a non-hardening fixer to maintain the brown stain on the film. That's critical for good results. Other compensating developers, like diafine may also help. Not many labs offer it, but you can do it at home. I think that's the only way to tame the contrast of underexposed slow films.
Jeffery
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 08/11/2025

Thanks so much, Jeffery! I feel like I've learned so much from the feedback on this post and I'm really glad I included both the one stop and two stop push because of all of the great insights I've gotten from the forum. It's counterintuitive to me, but it feels like high contrast slow stocks are at their best in overcast/flat light, when you don't have as much light to play with. But I do like the results I got in LA in those conditions so much, I can see it. I'm curious what stock you would have loaded on a sunny late afternoon, like the one I was shooting here in this post? I'm still sending my stuff to the lab, curious if there are any instructions you'd suggest for a commercial lab for processing in a situation like that. I don't think they will change their chemicals, but they've been very good at following direction when I drop off film. Many thanks! s

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Jeffery Luhn replied:

Comment posted: 08/11/2025

Scott, I had a longer reply, but it didn't get posted for some reason. To paraphrase: For me, I'd sacrifice fine grain for shadow detail and faster shutter speeds. I don't see the advantage of underexposing a slow film when a good faster film is available. Lack of shadow detail makes it very hard to print. You can add contrast with paper grades or printing filters, but if you have a high contrast negative with blocked up highlights and absent shadows, you'll never get a great print. Sure HP5 is not going to have the smooth grain of Pan 50, but with careful exposure and processing it can be very good. HC-110 or D-76 are such dependable developers that I hesitate to recommend anything else except PYRO CMK. There's something to be said for processing your own film. Labs don't consider how you exposed the film, so even giving them directions on pushing or pulling is going to be a general approach. At home, you can do a clip test of the first 1/4 roll and make a determination on your final processing. After a few rolls you'll know what your developing is going to be while you're shooting. Home film processing is so easy. It's worth it. Jeffery

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Gordon Ownby on Pushing Pan F Plus: first stop, Santa Monica, second stop, Manhattan

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Scott - Glad you had a productive photo session while in L.A. I'm not at all competent in discussing pushed film (I seem to be a 'box speed' shooter), but I'm a huge fan of the effects of using vintage or vintage-formula lenses. Your portraits along the edge of Palisades Park have a remarkable "lost style" look. No doubt the Pan F film was a big factor in that, but that Summitar gave it some strong support.
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Scott Ferguson replied:

Comment posted: 15/11/2025

Hi Gordon, Thanks so much! I think the combination of the Summitar wide open and Pan F Plus is a really cool and exciting look, especially with such an interesting looking person to photograph. I love the term 'lost style' as a way to describe the look of those images and it perfectly describes how I felt looking at them. I think I like it better than "timeless" the term I've been using up to now. I think the Summitar is a really special lens and I choose it far more often than my other 50 mms, which are significantly more expensive. I was shopping for an LTM 50mm when I was seriously considering getting a Barnack, and they had a Summarit 50mm f1.5, which I passed on because it had a lot of haze. The shop also had the Summarit, which looked pretty clear, and it has become my favorite lens. (I returned the Barnack). Someday I might revisit a Summarit, which is said to have even more personality, but for now I'm very happy with the Summitar.

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