Notice anything off about this Contax 167MT? Look closely, hold, and look again…
Well, trick question, there isn’t anything to notice. From the front, this is just like any other Contax 167MT made, just with the optional battery holder accessory. But wait, what about the rear…
Ahh, that’s more like it. Some of you keen-eyed Contax fans might’ve already noticed what is off about this camera. A hint if you aren’t familiar – look closely at the eyecup and databack.
Modding isn’t common or easy to achieve for analog camera bodies, at least from what I’ve experienced, I suppose because of all the delicate precision parts inside. However, Contax SLRs have a few hidden secrets that allow for some level of customization, and as my wife can attest to, my desire to tinker with my gear is overwhelming. So, for this article, I wanted to explore a couple of easy, practical, and even useful modifications that I’ve made, to my Contax 167MT.
Aside from it being a model that I own & am familiar with, I chose the 167MT for this article because it is probably the most mod-friendly Contax there is. See, all the second-generation Contax SLRs, with a couple of exceptions, are derived from the 167MT; the ST even has some interchangeable parts. Peter Schu reviews the 167MT in more depth, but in short, the 167MT was a technological marvel when it was released, so much so that it rendered all other Contax SLRs before it obsolete. Therefore, when creating new models, Kyocera & Zeiss used it as the basis for everything that followed. The Contax ecosystem is fascinating and I hope to cover it in a more detailed article, but just keep this in mind for now.
Back to the camera. For my 167MT, I’ve done two “mods” that are easy to do:
- First of all, and most noticeable, I’ve replaced the back with the ST’s data-back ceramic backplate, from an ST with a broken shutter.
- Secondly, I’ve given it the RX’s optional F-5 eyecup, instead of the F-3 meant for the 167MT.
- Lastly, this isn’t a mod, but I always use it with the optional P-5 battery grip, which I find extremely useful for a few reasons. I haven’t tested it fully, but it seems like the P-5 will work with the ST, but the ST’s P-7 will not fit the 167MT.
Switching out the back has a few advantages in my opinion:
- The ceramic backplate increases film flatness and reduces wear on the film, increasing resolution.
- If you want a databack, the stock D-7 back is rare, while parts donor STs are easier to find.
- For broken STs, it’s a way to not waste the parts. I don’t condone scavenging working STs for this though.
Basically, the ST was designed to fill the gap between the 167MT, and the extremely pricey RTS III, and in order to get it out quickly, they used the 167MT as their base. They took its chassis, remade it out of brass instead of aluminum, fitted an oversized pentaprism, and gave it the RTS III’s ceramic backplate, but minus the highly expensive and complex real time vacuum system. Thus, the ST and 167MT have the exact same back dimensions, so there are no concerns about light leaks as long as the seals are good.
As for the eyecup, I find the RX F-5 eyecup to be much better padded and more comfortable for use, especially when looking through the viewfinder for long periods of time. It isn’t an exact fit though, because of its larger size, it will prevent the film door from opening. I don’t find it particularly annoying, but it is something to remember.
The optional battery grip is something I’d always recommend. While it does add weight and makes it larger, the grip makes the camera more comfortable to hold in hand, it isolates the battery compartment from battery leaks, and it moves the tripod socket to the center of the camera.
Unlike the older Contax models with leatherette though, like the 139 Quartz or RTS II, the 167MT’s rubberized covering doesn’t typically need replacement, so I don’t recommend trying.
Adding both mods is extremely easy. The F-5 eyecup slips over the viewpiece just like the stock eyecup, just remember that you’ll need to slip it back up a bit when opening the door. Changing out the stock back is almost as straightforward, it is the same procedure as installing the 167MT’s D-7 databack.
When opening up the film door, there’s a little tab at the hinge on the right side of the camera. Depress it and the back will pop out:
Then just take the ST’s back, depress the tab, and wiggle it in place. It’ll latch and fit perfectly:
As for how it performs? Well…great, I suppose? The RX eyecup has the most direct effect on my shooting, as I find it significantly more comfortable than the one meant for the 167MT/Aria. I can’t go back to the stock eyecup at all after this, it’s just so comfortable. Plenty of spare eyecups are floating around, so I highly recommend this for anyone with a 167MT.
While the ceramic backplate is really cool, and honestly looks good when opened, it’s probably a splitting hairs situation, and I don’t use the data functions at all. When the RTS III was released, it was found that the ceramic plate + real time vacuum did improve resolution, but it was only even noticeable on large prints, or after film has been left for days between shots. Since the ST only has the ceramic plate, the effect is even less pronounced, and any benefit would be erased when uploading to most websites due to image compression. Nevertheless, it’s worth at least the bragging rights, and all the shots come out nice and sharp anyways; I think this shot is a great example:
Despite the long exposure, and shooting wide open on the Distagon, the posters on the back wall are very sharp to my eyes, particularly in the full resolution image. Maybe it’s more a peace of mind item, but hey, it’s nice to know you’re maximizing your image quality, especially since I often go for days between shots myself. Plus, I just like messing around with my gear. 🙂
And here it is, all put together with some Pan F and an 80-200/4 Vario-Sonnar. Happy shooting!
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