Guest Guides Mods & DIY

Building a custom Olympus 35RC – “Project Deco” – Guest post by Steve Lloyd

I’ve got a bit of a habit for not just picking up a camera and shooting with it.  Instead, I spend a lot of time thinking about how I can modify them to improve the styling, ergonomics or functionality.  The beauty of analogue photography is that there are so many unloved cameras available that it feels like I’m giving them another chance after they’ve been set aside or left in a drawer for years.

All my life I’ve been a ‘modder’, which started when I was very young along with my brother.  My dad taught us both how to use tools as soon as we could pick them up and has spent his life building scale models so it was a natural progression.  I started with RC cars and boats and then moved up to real cars when I turned 17 with a host of Minis, Volkswagens and Japanese cars and finally cameras.  Up to now I’ve built custom 35mm, medium format, Polaroid and large format cameras but always seem to come back to Olympus 35RC’s because of their classic styling and great handling.   At last count I think I’ve owned 4 of them over the last 6 years but who’s counting!

Wenge veneered 35RC

Olympus 35RC with wenge veneer

Wenge SX70

Polaroid SX-70 with Wenge veneer

Polaroid 110 custom 4x5

Polaroid 110 custom 4×5

Earlier this year, after seeing a Kanto Olympus Titan M1 on the JCH website, I decided that I’d like to build a smoothed 35RC and respray it in a similar dark gunmetal grey.  The only problem was that I didn’t currently own one and already had more than enough cameras!  As a result, I turned to the Film & Conventional section of Talk Photography and pitched my idea for a new project with a slightly dodgy MSPaint render for the plans I had to see what they thought.

Original idea

My main goal was to smooth out the camera top plate as much as possible and just leave the ‘critical’ features.  I’ve never used a flashgun with any 35RC so the hot shoe was the first part to go, followed by the embossed logos on the front.

After seeing this and my previous projects, another photographer was kind enough to offer his 35RC as a donor.  At first, the idea of making permanent modifications to someone else’s camera for my vision is a bit daunting but Baz was happy to trust my judgement (thanks Baz).  His parting comment was, “Whatever happens, it will be a one off, a template, an original, prototype, and as such I will be pleased as punch!” which was enough reassurance for me to make a start.

While I was waiting for the camera to arrive, I started bouncing some ideas back and forth with Baz.  As this was his camera, I wanted it to fit his own ideas as well as mine and, as he is a fan of all things Art Deco, “Project Deco” was born.

Render

Top Plate

 

When it arrived, I started by removing the top plate and giving the camera a basic CLA (Clean, Lubricate, Adjust) to get the viewfinder/rangefinder clean and make sure the lens was tightened up.  It’s amazing what a difference just cleaning the mirrors internally can make to a camera that was essentially mint already.

CLA2

With the top plate removed, I made a start on my first task, removing the hot shoe and original logo with a combination of filler, fine filler, sandpaper and a lot of effort!

Top Plate smooth

I wanted to get the finish blended into the original rear edge of the plate because once it was sprayed, it needed to look like it had always been like that.

Once I was happy with the overall finish, I moved onto the frame counter.  As standard, the frame counter and window on a 35RC is basically, ‘functional’.  It’s a rectangular window with a bright orange triangle pointing to white on black numbers.  I’ve always been a fan of the bubble windows on Leica M3’s so decided to emulate one, along with inverting the counter colours and a suitably art deco font.  After trying some different layouts and fonts, we came up with a style that fitted the theme and the new round window I wanted to fit.  I then scanned the original frame counter disk to get the spacing right and drew up the new version in Photoshop.  I then printed a copy and bonded it to the original counter disk in the camera.

Frame Counter

Once the counter was ready, I moved on to the surround and started looking at ways to mirror the classic Leica bubble.  I eventually came across stainless steel cup washers that were the perfect diameter and bonded one to the top plate.  This was now ready to be primed and finished.

Round WIndow

As I was planning to fit a new leather skin to incorporate a better grip, I moved on to the main body and removed the original vinyl skin, which I would use as a template.  I really like the styling of the Konica Hexar AF, particular the right hand grip so I started to shape a similar style on the 35RC using PlayDoh as a trial piece.

PlayDoh Grip

After trying a few different styles and sizes, I settled on one and shaped a piece of MDF with a file and sandpaper until I was happy with the overall contours and it fit smoothly to the body.  This was then bonded to the body and smoothed in using fine filler.

MDF Grip

The added grip gives just enough extra size to the camera to allow me to hold it with a small finger loop meaning it can be kept close without getting in the way.  As I was intending to use it without a strap, I carried on the smooth theme and removed the left side strap lug entirely with the delicate application of a grinding stone…

Grinding stone

The lug itself acts as a light baffle and without it there would be a wide opening into the film chamber.  Rather than just remove it completely, I had to grind off the metal loop and leave the flat plate.  This would eventually be sprayed the same gunmetal grey to match the top and bottom plates.

I then moved on to the bottom plate and used the same fine filler as before to remove the original serial number and “Made in Japan” text that are stamped into it before giving it a coat of primer to check for high spots.

Bottom Plate Primer

Now that the top and bottom plates were complete and primed, I moved onto cutting and fitting the new leather skin.  Using the three original pieces, I cut a new piece for the back door and left side of the camera then bonded them in place.  The piece for the right side of the camera needed to be longer than the original to fit around the newly formed grip so I cut a template out of card and curved it around to fit.  Once I was happy with the fit, I cut the main piece of leather and a top and bottom piece to cover the grip and bonded them to the camera.  It was starting to take shape and looking like a mini Hexar!

Mini Hexar

At this point, I needed to get the primed parts ready for their topcoat with some fine grit sandpaper and then make the tough decision on what paint colour to actually use.  If anyone has ever had to make a decision like this, they will know just how hard it is and how similar all 157 (roughly…) different variants of dark grey metallic paint start looking on the shelf!  In the end, I decided to go with Ford Magnum Grey and started spraying.

First Spray Top

 

First Spray Base

After four layers of topcoat and three of lacquer, it was ready for the final re-assembly.

Completed Camera

Re-assembled2

As a final touch, I designed a new deco-inspired 35RC logo.  I then tasked my mum with embroidering it onto a custom leather drawstring bag to match the camera using one of her digital sewing machines (I told you my family are the reason I build custom cameras!).  This finished off the custom job nicely and I hope the camera has many years of use to come.

Logo Bag1

Logo Bag2

 

There are more pictures of the conversion in my Flickr set here – https://flic.kr/s/aHskwm8tyj

Thanks

Steve

 

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26 Comments

  • Reply
    jeremy north
    July 23, 2016 at 10:00 am

    Beautiful work. I love the less is more approach. Who needs a hotshoe anyway.

  • Reply
    Frank Lehnen
    July 23, 2016 at 10:01 am

    Ahem…. can I have one pleeeeez ?

    Very nice job indeed!

    • Reply
      Steve Lloyd
      July 25, 2016 at 12:34 pm

      Thanks Frank. Unfortunately this was a one off :0) I’m now working on a Yashica 44 (35mm conversion with digital frame counter) as well as a complete 3D Printed Instax mini back for TLRs.

  • Reply
    Baz
    July 23, 2016 at 12:10 pm

    This is my camera that Steve customised for me, and I have to say I am totally in love with it! It draws admiring looks whenever I use it, and I have explained the how, when and why it was done a dozen times so far.
    I cannot praise Steve and his talents enough, he has done a superb job on the camera and I cannot see myself parting with it, ever!
    Thanks also go to his Mum, for the brilliant job she did with the bag, I could not be more pleased with the style and finish!
    I have made a couple of changes to the camera (don’t worry Steve!) but only by adding a different soft button, lens hood, and a finger loop I made myself. I will post a couple of images later (if I can on the comments!)
    You can follow his conversions, he has two going at the moment, on the TalkPhotography forum, well worth a look in my opinion!
    Cheers Steve!
    Barry Smith.

    • Reply
      Steve Lloyd
      July 25, 2016 at 12:35 pm

      I’m glad you still like it Baz. The camera probably wouldn’t exist if you hadn’t kindly donated yours for the project so thanks again mate!

      • Reply
        Baz
        July 25, 2016 at 3:39 pm

        All the thanks go to you Steve, all I had to do was post it to you and drool when it came back!

        Can you just put a link into the posting for images?

  • Reply
    Marty Cutrone
    July 23, 2016 at 1:48 pm

    Wow! Very cool! Love the final product. Do you know if there are online directions for CLA of the 35? I’d love to try something similar to mine. Thanks for the inspiration…

    • Reply
      Steve Lloyd
      July 25, 2016 at 12:37 pm

      I didn’t follow any specific online guides other than a few pointers on how to remove the top plate to get at the rangefinder to clean it. So long as you have the right tools, the top plate is pretty easy to get off then I use cotton wool buds and lens cleaning solution to clean the mirrors (carefully!) Good luck with yours.

  • Reply
    ethan sprague
    July 23, 2016 at 2:21 pm

    EPIC ! Amazing, artistic vision and work!

    • Reply
      Steve Lloyd
      July 25, 2016 at 12:45 pm

      Thanks Ethan. I always try to get the finished result looking like something I’d be happy to use myself.

  • Reply
    Andrew
    July 23, 2016 at 2:52 pm

    That’s the slickest Oly 35 I’ve ever laid eyes on. Nicely, nicely done.

  • Reply
    David
    July 23, 2016 at 9:34 pm

    Yes please! Love it

  • Reply
    David S. de Lis
    July 23, 2016 at 9:58 pm

    Amazing job! I would be scared of simply moving one single screw! Wow! It’s not only very functional, but really beautiful and professional… It looks like that’s the original design… Ah, da envy! 🙂

  • Reply
    Gavin Go
    July 24, 2016 at 11:41 pm

    Wow. Thanks Im more inspired now. Been buying point and shoots and some slr to tinker with. Just like when I was a kid I want to open it and clean and repaint it.

    If not worth saving Im still hoping I can grab the glass and modify it to M. An impossible feat I think but worth wasting timeü No aperture just always wide open which is how I usually try to shoot.

  • Reply
    Chris Cohen
    July 25, 2016 at 1:15 am

    Phenomenal work Steve!

  • Reply
    Steve Lloyd
    July 25, 2016 at 12:47 pm

    Thanks Andrew, I appreciate the compliment :0)

  • Reply
    Sean Fisher
    July 25, 2016 at 3:37 pm

    Awesome work Steve!

    Can you send me an email?

    Sean

  • Reply
    Christian Irving Cayetano
    August 2, 2016 at 2:46 pm

    I would like to do this soon. Any tips on how to remove the glass from the top plate? How did you glue it back?

    • Reply
      Steve Lloyd
      August 7, 2016 at 9:29 pm

      Hi Christian. The cover over the rangefinder in the top plate is plastic and just glued in place. Once you’ve removed the entire metal top plate you can use a sharp blade to cut the adhesive then slide it under the plastic (inside the top plate) and pop it out. I cleaned the old adhesive off the plastic with the same blade and re-glued it back in with super glue. Good luck!

  • Reply
    Marcello
    December 9, 2016 at 6:41 pm

    Any Idea on how to fix a Auto position not working with the 35 RC? (every other manual positions work flawlessy, the battery is a 675 and is ok but the shutter in A never traps, the needle goes on red and is blocked, whatever speed I choose)

    • Reply
      Barry Smith
      December 10, 2016 at 11:27 pm

      It is possibly (or probably) the light meter is not working.
      It is repairable however.
      Also the wire under the battery holder can, and does get corroded, and will not put the current to the meter.
      Both repairs mean taking off the bottom plate, the meter needle can be checked by fitting the battery and see if it moves.
      The battery holder is glued in and needs careful removal as it breaks easily.

      • Reply
        Marcello
        December 11, 2016 at 2:18 pm

        thank you!
        the meter needle moves, as I press the shutter it goes from right to the far left in red zone with and without battery, but in A position the it doesn’t fire, it’s like a trip 35 with low light.
        In every other manual position the shutter work flawlessy, the needle move to the aperture chosen.
        the minus contact on the battery can seems ok but the contact below seems covered with a a bit of oxide, I’ll try to check the wire contact below.

  • Reply
    Marcello
    December 11, 2016 at 3:02 pm

    Ok, tried to reach the white wire, it was ok, I however resoldered it and the black to the galvanometer, no way, it doesn’t fire.
    thank you anyway, I’ll keep use it in manual mode 🙂

    • Reply
      Barry Smith
      December 11, 2016 at 8:10 pm

      I presume you checked to see if the current was reaching the meter? Even a little oxidisation will stop it.
      If not, sounds like the coil ‘could’ be dead, this entails taking the lens off, although I have never done this on the RC!
      Also, a rarer problem on the RC is the actual ‘switch’ under the ring for setting it to ‘A’.
      If you don’t fancy tearing down your RC, then Sunny 16 is the way to go!

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