Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

By David Mackay

This article will save you money. Maybe. If you’re here for some photos, scroll to the TLDR and the photos at the end.

Last year I came across this review by Dan Cuny of the FAST Box One, a shutter speed tester that is manufactured in Poland. For the price it is hard to beat without investing time in building one for myself. I know that there are alternatives, for instance it is possible to record your shutter in slow motion and count frames, however I find this process beyond tedious. Furthermore, what appeals to me most about having a dedicated shutter tester is its ability to produce several accurate results in quick succession. This article is not about the FAST Box, but rather what it does. I want to discuss shutter testing and how you can use data to help you with old cameras.

Since getting into film photography I have found myself drifting towards (mostly) mechanical cameras. I don’t trust old electronics and have eschewed any camera that relies too much upon them.

The issue with everything in the physical universe is entropy. Over time screws become loose, springs lose their springiness and grease congeals to gum up the works. When buying old cameras you have to come to terms with this. We all get old, and we should respect that cameras do too. This ain’t Hollywood; rather than expecting age to pass it by we should instead meet a camera where its at.

I decided to test two of my cameras that currently aren’t loaded with film. The first was my Honeywell Pentax Spotmatic. The meter in this thing is busted, and so without automatic mode it has six manual shutter speeds including bulb. The slowest speed is 1/60th which leaves a lot to be desired. After 50 years I was curious to see how true those speeds actually were.

To test them I aligned the FAST Box with the center of the camera and recorded twenty actuations at each speed. This is what I found.

The setup minus the phone flashlight for obvious reasons.

Terminology 

Before we begin lets clear up some terms. These terms made sense to me as I see them but they may not be accurate or abundantly clear to you.

Mean  –  Average of values
Variance – Difference between stated shutter speed and the mean
Spread – Difference between the maximum and minimum values
StDev – Standard deviation from the mean
Stop Diff – Difference in stops over/under correct exposure
LM Calibration – Light meter calibration number, taken as the fastest recorded shutter speed

Spotmatic Results

As you can see every shutter speed is slower than advertised, the degree to which it is off increases with the speed of the shutter. So too does the consistency with faster shutter speeds having a greater range of possible values per shot than slower ones.

To better understand these numbers I calculated the difference in terms of stops. At all speeds the difference is negligible, ranging from 1/3 to 2/3s of a stop in the right direction i.e. overexposure.

Below you can see each speed, with the range of values represented by the size of each box.

Rolleiflex 3.5 Results

The Rolleiflex that I own is a certified dinosaur produced between 1949 and 1951. I decided to test each speed only 10 times out of an abundance of care.

Curiously the results show a similar trend. As we know correlation always equals causation and with a whopping sample size of two I am ready to draw some conclusions.

The data shows that the Rolleiflex suffers in much the same way. It is definitely more consistent, which is a testament to its engineering considering it was already old enough to drink by the time the Spotmatic was produced.

The stop differences are more pronounced ranging from 1/2 to 4/5s of a stop (which you can round up to 1 stop if you hate fractions). The values for the Rolleiflex are also closer to bleeding into one another. For example 1/100 has a mean of 1/61, much closer to 1/50 than its stated speed. However 1/50 has kindly dropped to 1/34 to make room.

Again, you can see the consistency of each speed and how much tighter each range is on the Rolleiflex.

You said I could save money?

Well the first way you can save money is to not buy a shutter tester unless you really really want one. There are however, some practical reasons for why you might justify getting one.

Cameras are a bit like people in that they get slower not faster with age. Based on the hard science above, we can assume that your camera’s shutter (if inaccurate) is likely to be slower too. And that’s okay.

Negative film is very forgiving to overexposure. Even with slide film 2/3s to 4/5s of a stop is still within the margin of error, albeit giving you less room to avoid bungling the exposure on your own. The proof will always been in the negative. If you measure 1/125 and shoot what you think is 1/125 and the negative comes out fine, the shutter speed is fine too.

So why test at all?

More accuracy never hurt anyone accidentally.

I use my phone as a light meter and the app I use allows me to set custom shutter speeds. To do this I took the fastest shutter speed from each group of values. For example, the fastest shutter speed at 1/1000 on the Spotmatic was 1/693. This means that the other 19 shots received more exposure than this. Overexposure is good, underexposure is bad. By setting my custom shutter speed reading to 1/693 I could be sure that most shots would fall above that number instead of pretending this camera is ever capable of 1/1000 again. This improved accuracy allows me to make even greater mistakes elsewhere and still get usable results.

Shutter testing can help you avoid wasting money on crap cameras. As we learned slower speeds are fine and are easily accounted for; even if you are lazy your film will pick up your dirty socks and put them in the hamper. However, a dedicated shutter tester can tell you how consistent a camera is. To me this is the most important factor when inspecting a camera, as an inconsistent shutter may be indicative of more serious (and expensive) issues.

TL/DR

Shutter tester good and help save money.

  1. Saves film by giving you more latitude to screw up the exposure yourself.
  2. Helps detect crappy cameras.
  3. By not buying one you save money too.

Photos

Since this is a photography website. Here are two photographs.

Goose with his walking stick. Spotmatic, HP5
Goose discovering his new found love of the beach Rolleiflex 3.5, Kentmere 200

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Comments

Gary Smith on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Hi David! Your article made me revisit Dan's article so I could follow the link to the Fast Box. I guess every time I buy an old mechanical camera I wonder about shutter speeds and aperture accuracy. At some point buying a sacrificial roll of film may become more expensive than buying a Fast Box but for now I'll stick with running a roll through the new ones.

Thanks for your post!
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thanks Gary. If any of us were looking to make photography as cheap as possible we wouldn't shoot film to begin with, so I think its a case of six of one, half a dozen of the other.

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Paul Quellin on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

This ought to spur me into action too. A helpful read, thanks.
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thanks Paul.

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Nick Orloff on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thanks David, very informative.

I like the idea of adjusting the metering so you're using the real speed rather than the displayed/theoretical.
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thanks Nick.

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CHRISTOF RAMPITSCH on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Goose seems like a great name for your hound!

If you happen to have a digital ocsilloscope... (really? who has this? - well, my sone has one, so I guess I am lucky), you can test shutters with a simple circuit containing a photodiode. Shine a flashlight through the shutter and measure the current spike through the oscilloscope with time, as you press the shutter. Amazingly, all my leaf shutters (Mamiya Sekors and a Copal) were bang on, expect for a 180mm Sekor with a Seiko Shutter that was slow by 1 stop throughout. Since I use this lens only rarely, I now just "underexpose" slightly by selecting a faster shutter speed. An old Synchro Compur Rapid, with the 1/50-1/100-1/200 "rapid" speeds, was slow only on the top speed (1/200 was only slightly faster than the next one down, 1/100). But it's a field camera lens that is rarely set above 1/25 or 1/50. Any my Rollei 35SE was bang on, except for the 1 sec timer, which was slow. It's a fun way to geek out for an hour or so.
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

That's one way to do it. Yes a fun way to geek out. I tested my Rollei 35s last night and it followed the trend, however it stayed much more consistent at higher shutter speeds.

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David Pauley on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thanks, David for the article and especially for the photos of Goose! Very happy looking fellow! In yhr Rolleiflex shot with the flat horizon he looks like the Elemental Dog!
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thank you. He is a very happy fellow indeed.

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Michael McGrath replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Hi David, That's very interesting, thank you. I have noticed this with my own cameras and test them by recording the shutter sound on my phone, but this seems a much better option. Thanks!

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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 26/03/2026

Thanks Michael! If you get this one (or one like it) I don't think you will be disappointed. However you method is a good way to get a ballpark estimate which is probably all you need if we continue with the assumption that a shutter will get slower not faster with time. If your shutter sounds consistent your film will more than compensate, unless 1/250 sounds more like 1'!

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Roger on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

This is very informative. I thought about buying a shutter speed tester a few months ago when I acquired more old cameras, but decided against. Seeing your results makes me wonder whether that was the right decision.

Does anyone know how the FAST Box One compares with Filmomat’s PhotoPlug which appears to do the same thing for half the cost (assuming one already has a suitable smartphone).
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

Thanks Roger. I can't compare the two, however I did look into the PhotoPlug before purchasing the Fast Box. If I remember correctly I decided against it because it required an adapter to get it to plug into my phone, used sound instead of light to measure and required an app.

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Roger replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

If you do not use a PhotoPlug, the app does indeed measures sound, and I cannot see how that can be reliable when the main noise is the mirror slap. However, I assumed that the PhotoPlug converted a measurement of light into an electrical signal that the app could process as if it were sound. Otherwise, there would be no need to place a light into front of the camera when measuring. So I think it is measuring how long light is coming through. However, Bob Janes’s comment raises issues I want to think about before investing in anything. I guess there is no substitute for running a film through the camera. You are right that it needs an adapter if you can connect only through USB-C, but that is only a few Euros extra and the price is still around half of that of the FAST box.

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Bob Janes on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

To start with I’d like to pay tribute to your picture of Goose sitting in the sea. Exposure is great, processing looks amazing and attention to composition is wonderful.
Having said that, I think that measuring shutter speeds is a rabbit hole too far.
Many years ago I spent some of my sixth form time in the physics labs in school with scaler timers and photo diodes along with a kid in the upper sixth trying to test the shutters of our SLRs. It was problematical. Part of the problem was the width of the light that was being shone through the shutter – we ended up realising that as the shutter speed increased and the slit in the focal plane shutters decreased (one was vertical the other horizontal) the accuracy of our testing setup started to come apart. – Now I guess that modern equipment may use a laser-light rather than the relatively broad beam we were attempting to use, but the very physical nature of the shutters makes measurement problematical – because even leaf shutters are not fully open for the time indicated – instead it spends some time opening and some closing and the real objective is to let in a particular amount of light rather than be open for a set amount of time.
Add in the realisation that, with a mechanical shutter you can only set a shutter speed to whole stops (which are not always precisely twice the previous speed), and that your aperture settings tend to only have half-stop click stops and you are quite likely to be ¼ of a stop out over or under in any case.. and what are you metering? If you meter different bits of the subject you will get significantly different readings.
The whole physics of measuring is fascinating, but I’m not sure what it can practically tell you. For me, the main thing is, ‘Does a reasonable amount of light reach the film?’ If it does, the actual shutter speed (or transmission value of the lens) don’t matter so much.
Many thanks for the article though, it made me reexplore my ideas on shutter speed testing, even if it didn’t change my mind.
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David Mackay replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

Thank you Bob for both the compliment and sharing your experience with shutter speed testing. Your concerns are valid, and you're right this wasn't exact science in its current format. I like your idea about using a laser and may follow up on that. When I first began I noticed on the Spotmatic that I was getting different readings depending on whether I placed the sensor towards the left, right or center, which begged the question as to what I was really measuring. I am happy with the tester because it was responsive to the changes in shutter speed and that those results showed a trend across cameras. It had to be measuring something, even if that something was not the true speed it gives me a ball park as to how each is performing. More importantly it helped me understand if the shutter was consistent.

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

Bob said: "...with a mechanical shutter you can only set a shutter speed to whole stops..." Is this true? I'm looking at fully mechanical Nikon F2's and apparently their shutter speed can be adjusted linearly.

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Bob Janes replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

I would have said it was unusual for a mechanical focal plane shutter to be constantly variable. I've not heard of people using positions on the dial between engraved values, but I've never got my hands on an F2...

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Richard Becker replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

Shutter speeds on leaf shutters such as the Compur-Rapid are infinitely variable within certain ranges, although this is not often stated in the manuals. The one for the Kodak Retina i does though as an example. On the Compur-Rapid a speed can be set anywhere on the slow speed escapement, usually from 1second to 1/10th or 1/8th. And again anywhere between the next fastest speed and the one below the fastest, 1/20th to 1/200th on some models. The top speed of 1/400th or 1/500th is fixed. As the distance between marked speeds on the dial is tiny and there are no click stops it follows that whatever speed set is only approximate and probably unrepeatable.

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Gary Smith replied:

Comment posted: 27/03/2026

Hi Bob, as I said in investigating the F2 cameras it appears that the Nikon F2 allows for continuously variable, "stepless" shutter speeds between 1/80th and 1/2000th of a second. You can set the shutter speed dial in between the marked click-stops (e.g., between 1/125 and 1/250) for more precise exposure control, but this feature is only available for fast speeds, not those slower than 1/80th. This allows you to select a shutter speed that corresponds exactly to a selected aperture.

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Nick Orloff on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 28/03/2026

David,

Not the most exciting way to spend a Saturday afternoon .... I dug out my FAST Box and tested my Nikon F.

I started with a Nikon FA and it took me far too long to realise that with the back open the camera defaults to 1/250. I'll have to work out to get around that.

Results from the F (10 actuations per speed):

Shutter Average
1/1000 1/312
1/500 1/278
1/250 1/192
1/125 1/111
1/60 1/61
1/30 1/31
1/15 1/16
1/8 1/9
1/4 1/5
1/2 1/3
1 1

I'm not sure why, but I was expecting the inaccuracies to show up at the slow end. I suppose I have a two (obvious) choices:

a) Not bother trying to set the camera faster than 1/250th
b) Have the camera serviced.

Thank you again for an informative and very useful post. Now I just need a couple of rainy afternoons so I can test the rest of my collection.
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Charles Young on Metering Them Where They’re At – Shutter Speed Testing a Pair of Mechanical Cameras

Comment posted: 30/03/2026

I am thinking that the issue is kinda overdone. Your worst case is the fastest shutter speed with the Rollei. Approx 1 f/stop. I would think that you could decide if you have a shutter speed problem with a test roll of film. My most recent old camera purchase was a Kodak Pony 135. Just listening to the shutter click told me that it was about right.

A few years ago I tested several Argus C3s with a light source a photo diode and a digital oscilloscope.
The shutter speeds were a bit off but all were usable and they all passed the listening test.
Chuck
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