Pho and Jun, two professional models I met outside the Presidential Palace, who agree to do a photoshoot with me.

Sigh, Gone – Shooting in Ho Chi Minh City

By Ali MC

These photographs were made on a recent trip to Saigon (Ho Chi Minh City), Vietnam’s economic metropolis and home to more than 8 million people.

I first visited the city in 2003, and it had morphed into a very different beast in only two decades; somewhat of a late bloomer in the rapid development of Asian cities, I was taken aback by the gargantuan skyscrapers and apartment buildings that lined the urban horizon.

The new skyline of Saigon, a rapidly modernising city.
The new skyline of Saigon, a rapidly modernising city.

The city’s 20th century history of French and US colonisation – which had once been so prominent in the architecture – had been largely masked over with billboards and modernisation; the bar where burnt-out Vietnam veterans once gathered to drink and tell war stories was now an H&M shopping mall; the building from which the final US helicopter had lifted from the roof after the communist takeover in 1975 now housed an insurance company; young skaters were being reprimanded by security on the steps of the Museum and the shanty towns that had lined the river had been replaced by a pleasant promenade.

This short photographic series was an attempt to document these changes in Saigon’s city streets that greeted me upon my return after two decades. Some of these images were made in the city’s oldest apartment block, Nguyen Thien Thuat. Built in 1968 it originally housed US servicemen but was now home to low-income families and street markets.

An elderly resident of Saigon's oldest apartment block, Nguyen Thien Thuat, built in 1968. Fortunately I was accompanied by a translator who asked the lady if it was ok to make a photograph of her; she seemed happy we were there and interested in the history of the neighbourhood.
An elderly resident of Saigon’s oldest apartment block, Nguyen Thien Thuat, built in 1968. Fortunately I was accompanied by a translator who asked the lady if it was ok to make a photograph of her; she seemed happy we were there and interested in the history of the neighbourhood.
View from the apartment building balcony overlooking Saigon's oldest apartment block, in Nguyen Thien Thuat, built in 1968.
View from the apartment building balcony overlooking Saigon’s oldest apartment block, in Nguyen Thien Thuat, built in 1968.

Other photographs depict some of the brand-new apartments and office towers that had shot up in the last few years, mostly made from the back of motorbikes as I was ferried through the horde of Honda’s that zoomed their way across brand new freeways like a hornet swarm.

Motorcycle on Saigon freeway at dusk.
Motorcycles on a Saigon freeway at dusk.
Saigon's oldest apartment block, in Nguyen Thien Thuat, built in 1968.
Saigon’s oldest apartment block, in Nguyen Thien Thuat, built in 1968.

On this trip I also randomly met Pho and Jun outside the old presidential palace. They were taking photos of each other on their phones while sitting on an old Russian tank and I could tell by the way they instinctively posed that they must be professional models.

I approached them and we got talking; I liked their style and the fact that, as a couple, they looked great together and had the old late-70’s punk vibe about them, with the dyed hair and black clothing.

I had some rolls of Kodak Tri X and my Ricoh GR1V (one of my favourite cameras) and asked if they’d be interested in doing a shoot, so we met a couple of days later in the trendy neighbourhood of Binh Thanh to find some urban backdrops that would suit the style.

For this shoot I pushed the Kodak Tri X to 1600 iso in order to accentuate the contrast and amplify Pho and Jun’s black and blonde aesthetic.

Pho and Jun were great to work with and brought both attitude and teenage tenderness to the shoot.
Pho and Jun were great to work with and brought both attitude and teenage tenderness to the shoot.
Using Tri X pushed to 1600 brought out the high contrast and grain.
Using Tri X pushed to 1600 brought out the high contrast and grain.

However, according to lab, my rolls of film were damaged by the x-ray at Melbourne Airport (who assured me the x-ray machines were safe!) so these photos are a little bit more washed out than what I would prefer them to be.

This also answers some of the questions that were raised in a previous article I wrote with regard to the new CT Scanners – which I have now encountered first-hand and can confidently say YES THEY DO RUIN FILM EVEN IF THE AIRPORT STAFF TELL YOU THEY DON’T!

Despite this minor disappointment, I still think the photos work well to capture that 70’s punk feel, with the high contrast and obvious grain, and I really enjoyed working with Pho and June, who come to the camera with both a bad-ass attitude and also a sweet teenage tenderness.

Their youth and style also spoke to me about the rapid modernisation of Vietnam and the new generation of Instagram and Tiktok, and the rapidly receding of the American War that seems to preoccupy the western imagination.

This was not to say the past had been forgotten; far from it, I realised, after a conversation with some young Saigonese locals over drinks in a trendy venue who spoke of their families experience and were prepared to share their thoughts on the matter.

Reportedly Saigon's oldest coffee shop, the Cheo Leo Cafe, which started in 1938.
Reportedly Saigon’s oldest coffee shop, the Cheo Leo Cafe, which started in 1938.

Yet while the past may have not been forgotten, there was a future to be claimed and this may mean disposing with the visual and architectural nostalgia of the older generations and defining the 21st century with a punk style and some grainy black and white photographs.

Sigh, gone.

View of brand new apartment buildings being developed in Dong Van Cong.
View of brand new apartment buildings being developed in Dong Van Cong.

Thankyou to fellow 35mmc contributor Martin Misiak and my guide Kimmy for assisting with transport and translation to make these photos happen.

See more: www.alimc.com.au @alimcphotos

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About The Author

By Ali MC
Ali MC is a freelance writer and photographer who holds a Masters in Human Rights Law. His work has featured in publications such as Al Jazeera, The Guardian, GQ and SBS, and his photography has appeared in galleries such as the Monash Gallery of Art. Previous projects have included Rohingya refugees, marginalised East Timorese groups and labouring conditions in north-east India. Ali MC is also the author of the full-length 'punk rock travel book' The Eyeball End. He currently works extensively with Indigenous communities in Australia.
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Comments

JC on Sigh, Gone – Shooting in Ho Chi Minh City

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

Hi Ali MC,
nice Ho Chi Minh - City pictures !
Well done on film !
Which camera and lenses did you use ?
Cheers, Jens
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Ali MC replied:

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

Thanks Jens, I used a Ricoh GR1v with Tri X. The Tri X is pushed to 1600 for the modelling photos.

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Bradley Newman on Sigh, Gone – Shooting in Ho Chi Minh City

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

These are amazingly evocative. Wow. Thank you for sharing.
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Ali MC replied:

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

Hi Bradley, thanks for stopping by to take a look :)

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Brad Sprinkle on Sigh, Gone – Shooting in Ho Chi Minh City

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

Another stunning set of photos on 35mmc. Your placement of the subjects in the first photo is absolutely perfect. The ripped up sign and barbed wire just amplify the moodiness of the photo. Great job.
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Ali MC replied:

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

Thanks Brad - appreciate the thoughtful feedback. Pho and Jun were great to photograph, such a presence for the lens to work with.

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Gary Smith on Sigh, Gone – Shooting in Ho Chi Minh City

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

I have never been farther west than Hawaii so while Asia (in general) is on my so-called bucket list, at 70, I don't think I'm going to ever get there. Vietnam's journey over the last 80 years has been impressive. Dealing with the French and US and emerging as a part of the so-called "modern world". Looking at your images allows me to have a taste of the city. I liked your shots of Pho and June. Although I've taken people shots (as a part of a former job) as a rule I don't include people in my "regular" photography. Maybe it's time? As to taking film through airports - isn't it best to hand it through security separately? Thanks for your insightful post, I think I need to check out your website.
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Ali MC replied:

Comment posted: 01/05/2024

Hi Gary, thanks for your comment and glad you could 'travel' through them. I much prefer people in photos - but that's just me, everyone is different. And yep - hand check every time. Unfortunately on this occasion at Melbourne Airport they didn't allow it and 'assured' me the x-ray was film safe, which clearly it isn't. Lesson learned to be more emphatic next time.

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Geoff Chaplin on Sigh, Gone – Shooting in Ho Chi Minh City

Comment posted: 02/05/2024

I can sympathise with the Sigh. Age brings character - I wonder if the modern buildings will ever achieve that though I suspect their size prohibits much external character. Much the same (though less dramatic) losses of characterful areas can be seen in many Japanese cities and in London. However your models bring a strong although very different character to the images. Excellent post, thanks.
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Ali MC replied:

Comment posted: 02/05/2024

Thanks for your comment Geoff. Yangon (formerly Rangoon) is another SE Asian city which has seen a rapid modernisation at the expense of some of the classic colonial buildings. But yes, I did feel important to add the presence of the younger generation to the photo series from Saigon; after all, their perspective on their own city is just as (if not more) important than that of nostalgia. Ali

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