Reticulated Cascais

How (not) to Reticulate

By Geoff Chaplin

I was developing film away from my darkroom. I had assembled the essential equipment and, because I knew that untreated tap water in Brussels used to be very hard, I had made up developer (Rodinal 100:1), stop, fixer and final rinse using purified water. And so I began. Closing the door of the shower room in the evening with other nearby room lights turned off the room became a virtually perfect darkroom. Film loaded in a reel, placed in the tank, developer added, 20 inversions and I left it. An hour later I dumped the developer, briefly used the stop (plain purified water), then fixer. After the fixer I held the tank under the tap, turned the mixer tap to cold and filled the tank. 10 inversions – oh gosh! this feels HOT! I ran the water for a while before taking water for the second and third wash, then used the final rinse water and hung the films to dry. After that experience I saved 10 litres of tap water in two tanks and kept it in the room to attain the same temperature as the developer etc. Subsequent films were normal.

Briefly, reticulation happens if there is a large temperature difference between different liquids used to develop and finish the film. It’s usually something you want to avoid, though there are ways to use it deliberately, and how you manipulate the temperature (which liquid – developer, second wash water, …) including using the freezer, together with other chemicals that might be used, can all lead to a different result. In addition changes to the contrast curve in post can make the pattern more or less apparent.

Images in this article images were taken on FP4 using a Yashica Mat 124G. The featured image clearly shows an unwelcome pattern in the blank sky (more about this below) and has been exaggerated here and in the following images by adjusting the contrast.

The second image shows a similar pattern on the blank wall.

Reticulated Cascais

As we move away from blank areas the pattern becomes harder to detect – here it is most visible on the wall upper left and in the shadow of the sign.

Reticulated Cascais

When we move to a crumbling textured wall the pattern becomes much harder to detect.

Reticulated Cascais

The final image is actually a favourite of mine in spite of and because of the obvious faults – the uncorrected tilt in the frame and greatly exaggerated reticulated pattern seem to add to the atmosphere of the back street, cobbles, uneven bollards and walls.

Reticulated Cascais

However there’s more to the pattern than simply reticulation. I had a batch of faulty (as agreed by Ilford) FP4 once which showed a much finer pattern running vertically along the film. There are some similarities here – you probably noticed the abrupt change in the pattern about a quarter of the way from the left edge – although the pattern here is an order of magnitude larger than on the faulty film I had. I’m speculating the reticulation here reveals some unevenness in the film production process.

If you are interested in pursuing reticulation as an ‘alternative’ technique of development there is a useful introduction by Ilford here

 

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About The Author

By Geoff Chaplin
Primarily a user of Leica film cameras and 8x10 for the past 30 years, recently a mix of film and digital. Interests are concept and series based art work. Professionally trained in astronomical photography, a scientist and mathematician.
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Comments

Gary Smith on How (not) to Reticulate

Comment posted: 24/03/2024

It's been 50 years since I've done any darkroom work. I know that I never used Rodinal. I suspect that whatever I used was Kodak branded. I know that I never counted inversions of my developer tank and the many rolls of Tri-X that I processed never showed reticulation. Luck possibly or more latitude in the film and chemicals I used back in the day. I'd be inclined to develop my own film again but for the chemical sensitivities of my wife and a general malaise as I seem to forget more and more and ache most of the time...
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 24/03/2024

Gary, thanks. Its a large temperature difference between liquids that causes reticulation, nothing to do with which chemicals or film. As for the rest - I know the feelings only too well....

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Bill Brown on How (not) to Reticulate

Comment posted: 25/03/2024

Geoff, If you ever wish to reduce the appearance of these spots on certain images try this in PS. Duplicate the background layer and set the layer blend mode to darken. Then use the move tool or hold down the command(Mac) key and using the arrow keys move the layer around. Once you like the result flatten the file, take a snapshot on the history layer then back up in history prior to adding the darken layer. Now set your history brush icon on the snapshot you created and with the history brush set to darken, paint in those light spots. This doesn't always work but can sometimes make quick work of problems like this.
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 25/03/2024

Thanks Bill for the workaround. I've only faced reticulation once - this was it - although I did have a batch of faulty FP4 which looked like fine reticulation though running in parallel lines - a coating fault. So hopefully I won't need to use your solution but I'll make a note just in case. The best solution as we know is don't create the problem!

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Ibraar Hussain on How (not) to Reticulate

Comment posted: 25/03/2024

Thank you Geoff !
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 25/03/2024

You're welcome. Aim for a maximum of 4deg temperature difference between liquids to avoid reticulation.

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James T on How (not) to Reticulate

Comment posted: 25/03/2024

I've always thought that reticulation was at least in part an effect of the backing paper. In my own experience I've never seen the problem on 35mm or 5x4 film.
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 25/03/2024

Thanks James. It's the film not paper and caused by large temperature differences between chemical or wash water. There are people who do it deliberately with 35mm and other film.

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Roger on How (not) to Reticulate

Comment posted: 28/03/2024

Thanks for a very useful post. Though I have never noticed this, it will make me more careful about keeping the temperature constant through the process. I am curious about whether the problem arises just with large temperature differences between developer, stop bath and fixer, or does it occur if the final washing water is colder than the fixer or if successive washes get colder too quickly? My guess is that once the image has been fixed there should be less chance of reticulation but that could be wrong.

As for processing after scanning, it would be interesting to know whether Lasersoft's SRDx plugin would be able to improve the image, as the problems are most noticeable on areas where the tone is uniform.
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Paul Quellin on How (not) to Reticulate

Comment posted: 10/04/2024

Hi Geoff

I read this at the time with interest, then had reason to refer back to it this morning. I don't recall either having taken sufficient care or encountering the effect when I was young, but that was a long time ago and maybe I did. Last night the last roll I did was a 127 from a Bakelite Kodak Brownie... well why not? I was guilty of rushing the last one a little and vaguely aware that my stop bath water and rinse water was probably warmer than my developer, possibly by a reasonable margin. I didn't bother messing around with the thermometer at that stage, as I wasn't expecting much from the film in any case. That was wrong and now I feel guilty, I did the little Brownie a disservice. I got mild reticulation and I checked back to your article to confirm my suspicions, so thank you. The images are okay and in one of a wooden building it actually adds something somehow. It has though taught me that any emulsion deserves to be treated with respect whatever machine it came out of. Your informative post was very helpful.
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 10/04/2024

Thanks Paul and sorry to hear of your mishap matching mine. I generally keep chemicals and water in my darkroom so they are all the same temperature. However the darkroom is cold so I use Rodinal (which doesn't seem to give a hoot about development temperature). Working in an unfamiliar environment can throw me hence my error, and rushing always leads to problems.

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