Traversing The Cowboy Trail (Part two)

By Azriel Knight

Hello again! If you missed the first part of my journey across Alberta’s Cowboy Trail I highly recommend checking it out, otherwise this will make just about zero sense…

I woke up on day 3, September 22nd, 2021, at home in my own bed, knowing I made the right choice. I had slept for about twelve hours and before I got too too comfortable, I headed back to Priddis to pick up right where I left off. I arrived about noon.

From my journal:

“All the romanticizing about traveling The Cowboy Trail and I didn’t think about the toll it would take on my body. I have just under 48 hours to complete my journey.”

At this point I had shot two rolls of 120 and 2 of 35mm, and about 100 digitals. Pretty even on all fronts. The plan from here was to make it to Priddis by day’s end and with a travel time of two hours and a time-budget of eight I could be fairly leisure about it.

Pentax 6×7 – Kodak Tri-X – D76

I was in Millarville by 1PM, a very rich hamlet with mountain views. I don’t think there was a home there worth less than five million dollars. Of course, the best images were captured facing away from it.

Fujifilm X-E2S
Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76

I found Turner Valley to be a cute little town and enjoyed my walk though it.

Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76
Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76
Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X at 200 ISO – D76

Next up was Black Diamond. I had been through here a bunch before but never stopped in, so I was really looking forward to my experience here. I spent a good amount of time walking around and it was in the top three places I took the most photos. I was concerned about developing the last roll of Tri-X exposed at 200 ISO properly, so I needed to label it. I walked into a gas station and asked for a Sharpee and let me tell you, when he saw me pull out a roll of film and start writing on it, he had questions. He seemed old enough to remember film so he knew what I was doing but a little surprised to see it in 2021.

Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X at 200 ISO – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X at 200 ISO – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X at 200 ISO – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X – D76
Nikon F100 – Kodak Tri-X – D76

It was around this time I realized I was down to just two 35mm rolls. Why I didn’t bring more film I am not sure, but I had to conserve how often I used the Nikon F100 from this point on and lean into the Fujifilm X-E2S more, as well as the Pentax 6×7.

By about 5:30PM I had made it to Chain Lakes Provincial Park after an unfruitful stint in Longview. When I left Longview one of the first things I saw was a sign which read “No Services for 133 KM” and I knew I was in the thick of it. I saw my first bear, dashing up a hill. Too far away to take a photo and nowhere safe to pull over.

Chain Lakes was also a bust. My photos are just awful, possibly the worst from my trip. Partially lighting, mostly the camera operator.

By 8PM I had made it to my hotel in Pincher Creek, but not before stopping in at Lundbrek Falls, which was where I got some of the best photos of my trip, making up for the duds I shot for the last 150KM.

From my journal:

“The lookout point had a grate for a floor and you could see right through…..man….I hate heights, but I did it. I was a little shaky, but I got it done.”

Fujifilm X-E2S
Fujifilm X-E2S
Fujifilm X-E2S

On day 4, at sunrise, I headed to The Burmis Tree, which has been dead since the 1970s and is estimated to be between 600 and 750 years old. There’s a metal pole holding up one of the main branches. It had been years since I was here and wanted to get a good sunrise shot of it.

The sun rose behind me and in the sky was a line of low hanging cloud cover so the golden light only shined on it for a couple of minutes, but I got my shot.

Fujifilm X-E2S

I backtracked to Lundbrek, but didn’t capture the magic I had the previous day. Pincher Creek was also largely uninspiring.

Waterton Park however, was a slice of heaven. Until now, I had no idea that something so beautiful existed in Alberta. I don’t say this lightly, or for the sake of being dramatic, but I shed a tear as I drove in. As great as my photos turned out, I don’t think they did the park justice. It was a beauty you felt in your chest. If this had been my last stop it would have been a perfect ending to an imperfect trip.

Fujifilm X-E2S
Fujifilm X-E2S
Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76
Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76
Nikon F100 – Ilford HP5 Plus – D76
Pentax 6×7 – Kodak Tri-X – D76

Arriving in Cardston, my last stop, was a sour end to an otherwise successful journey. With a population of just over 3000, it was apparent from the start this town had a disproportionate homeless population. I also arrived during rush hour and was tired of seeing mandatory masking signs in small towns only to walk in and see no one, including the staff, wearing one. Perhaps I was exhausted, and my body knew this was the last stop but I was more than ready to return to my life.

This entire experience gave me a lot of confidence as a photographer, and helped me greatly in future road trips. Here are a few lessons I learned from my four days on the road.

  1. Use gear you trust, now is not the time to experiment with new films, lenses or camera bodies.
  2. The less types of film the better. If you can, stick to one film. This will significantly reduce your time in the darkroom when you get back, with batch developing.
  3. Distance does not equal time. Sometimes I drove a hundred kilometers before I saw anything, other times I spent two or three hours in one spot.
  4. Don’t book hotels in advance. Because of number three, I never booked a hotel until I was ready to pack it in. While this meant I had to head home halfway through, it also meant I didn’t have to rush to my destination, not did I arrive too early. Booking.com was my best friend during this, and subsequent trips.
  5. Download your maps and bring a backup, and dedicated GPS. It’s the 20s, but cell phone coverage is still spotty. I still find myself in areas with zero service.

I hope you enjoyed this journey.  It was interesting looking back at my journal, and the photos two years later. I almost went out this week and covered the south leg of the trail again, but I think I’m done for the year. I would love to hear your road tip tips in the comments!

Stay Classic!

Behind the Scenes

Exposed film from the trip.
My hotel in Pincher Creek
What I had to stand on in Lundbrek Falls
The first and only attempt at a roadside meal.

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About The Author

By Azriel Knight
Calgary resident and film photography enthusiast.
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Comments

John on Traversing The Cowboy Trail (Part two)

Comment posted: 26/10/2023

Thanks Azriel for a good read, inspiration, and of course, the photographs!
I particularly like the photos of buildings you passed on the way, especially the church.
Regards,
John.
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Azriel Knight replied:

Comment posted: 26/10/2023

Thanks John!

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Jeremy on Traversing The Cowboy Trail (Part two)

Comment posted: 26/10/2023

Great shots! The two F100 HP5 landscapes especially.

One tip I would add is to carry a variable ND and, if shooting black and white, a contrast filter(s). The ND because you can't control the sun or you may find you want a long exposure. The contrast filter(s) because dull conditions may call for it. Other tip - a very thin plastic bag, like a three gallon trash bag, along with a lens hood and gaffer tape. Those items are minimal to carry and may allow shooting in light/moderate wet weather. I typically attach the plastic to the front edge of the hood and drape it back over the entire camera.

Looking at those two landscapes, the D76 - it's a heck of an adjustment with Kodak chemistry disappearing. These days I use Flic Film Black White and Green 1-shot in the Jobo most of the time, which keeps costs down and it doesn't bother me dumping it down the drain. I do send stuff out too though if I'm too busy with kids and work to process it myself. My lab is switching over to DD from TMAX RS. I actually welcome that change, since Delta 3200 and Kentmere don't like TMAX RS.

Solid advice on the traveling photography - on the development front, I also find stand development helps, as I can soup ISO 100 thru 400, and 400 thru 1600 all together.
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Azriel Knight replied:

Comment posted: 26/10/2023

Thanks for the tips. I have been meaning to squire a variable ND for awhile just haven't got around to it and I just bought red 25 filters. I also have a camera cover for rainy/snowy days. If Kodak doesn't return in time, I'll likely be turning to Adox. All the best!

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shawn granton on Traversing The Cowboy Trail (Part two)

Comment posted: 27/10/2023

Thank you for this post, Azriel. In 2011 I biked toured along the Cowboy Trail from Lundbreck Falls to Black Diamond, and also went through Waterton and Pincher Creek, so it's nice to be reminded of this area. It was beautiful and sparse--if you think 133km in a car is bad, imagine that on a bicycle when you have to carry all of your food and water with you! Did you by any chance notice a fence lined with hats, south of Chain of Lakes? I wonder if it's still around.
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Michael on Traversing The Cowboy Trail (Part two)

Comment posted: 29/10/2023

Thank you Ariel for sharing this imperfect road trip. I took a look at some of the places on Google Street view and can understand your partial disillusionment. I can also imagine what a challenge it is to find interesting motifs there. I'm all the more grateful that you published it anyway. Because it reminds me that it is more important to just do things than to get perfect results. Because I read the text with the same interest and pleasure as I looked at the pictures.
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Azriel Knight replied:

Comment posted: 29/10/2023

Thanks for the kind words Michael. :)

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Dave O'Haire on Traversing The Cowboy Trail (Part two)

Comment posted: 10/11/2023

Thanks Azriel for letting us in on your adventure. Southern Alberta is a favourite picture taking destination for me. Living in the Rockies is wonderful but those big sky views free my eyes to see differently.
Happy Trails
Dave O'H.
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Azriel Knight replied:

Comment posted: 10/11/2023

Thanks Dave :)

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