The design and finish of these 3D printed developing reels is excellent

Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

By Andrew Long

28 June, 2025

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Darkroom & Dev Kit

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110 Reel Ausgeknipst Reels
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I’ve been disappearing down a 16mm wide rabbit hole recently. It all began with buying a Minolta 16 II on a whim (it was shiny …) from Soper Photographic, Plymouth, UK in Plymouth, as an extension to my interest in all things sub-miniature. Since then, the descent into the depths has continued, and I now have quite a selection of 16mm cameras to choose from.

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My growing collection of 16mm cameras: Minolta; Mamiya; Rollei; and Kiev

It so happens that 110 cassettes also take 16mm wide film, so there’s a separate 110 rabbit hole I’m exploring as well. Part of the challenge (some would say fun …) of sub-miniature is to extract as much as you can from impossibly small negatives. By way of example, here are strips of negs from 35mm, 16mm/110, and, for the truly masochistic, Minox.

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From top to bottom: 35mm, 16mm/110, and Minox

This graphic goes into a bit more detail, showing the relative sizes of the negs, drawn to scale. Some call 110 (13 x 17mm) a ‘quarter-frame’ format, so the original 16mm (10 x 14mm) negative is even smaller. And Minox (8 x 11mm) is smaller still.

Size comparison of film negatives
Comparison between 35mm, 110, 16mm, and Minox negatives

The effect of having such a small negative can be mitigated to a certain extent by picking a camera with a decent lens, choosing a fine-grained film (unless, of course, you like grain!), and careful development.

16mm film was always intended to be user-reloadable, as this page from the Minolta 16 user manual from the late 1950s shows. Compared to the fiendishly fiddly Minox cassettes, 16mm cassettes are relatively easy to load.

How to load a Minolta 16 film cassette in total darkness
How to load your Minolta 16 ‘magazine’ from a 1950s user manual

However, 110 cartridges, introduced by Kodak in 1972, were glued shut (plastic welded, actually) and labs typically would twist the cassette until it cracked open, allowing the film to be extracted for processing. Trying to open one with a view to trying to load fresh film in it involves a highly hazardous operation to split the seams with a scalpel or craft knife, trying not to sever any fingers in the process. A solution to this dangerous practice is, however, in development, so watch this space …

Back to 16mm … choosing a suitable emulsion is the first step to getting decent images from the tiny negatives. My go-to black and white film is the same as I use for Minox – Adox HR-50, but I’ve also had good results from Ilford Delta 100 Pro. I’ll be slitting various films down to 16mm to carry on the quest for the perfect sub-miniature reload film.

Although 16mm was a relatively short-lived film format, forced out of the market by a more convenient format, established manufacturers such as Mamiya, Minolta, and Rollei embraced it, producing some lovely little cameras with great lenses.

The film format may be small but with a camera with a decent lens and fine grain film the results can be impressive
Taken on my 1960s Minolta 16 II 16mm camera. Shot on Delta 100, developed in Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (Rüdiger Hartung semi-stand method) using an Ausgeknipst reel in a Paterson tank.
With the right film stock and a decent lens, it is possible to get decent images out the small negative on 16mm film
Taken on my 1960s Minolta 16 II 16mm camera. Shot on Delta 100, developed in Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (Rüdiger Hartung semi-stand method) using an Ausgeknipst reel in a Paterson tank.
The small negatives from 16mm film can capture excellent detail. I've taken the liberty of touching out the overhead cables, which, in my opinion, spoil the image!
Taken on my 1960s Minolta 16 II 16mm camera. Shot on Delta 100, developed in Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (Rüdiger Hartung semi-stand method) using an Ausgeknipst reel in a Paterson tank
The detail captured on this small 16mm negative is impressive, and survives quite close cropping in
Taken on my 1960s Minolta 16 II 16mm camera. Shot on Delta 100, developed in Zone Imaging 510-Pyro (Rüdiger Hartung semi-stand method) using an Ausgeknipst reel in a Paterson tank.
The compact Minolta 16 II 16mm camera from the early 1960s
My 1960s Minolta 16 II, with a pin-sharp Rokkor 22mm f/2.8 lens. Thanks to a quirk of optical engineering, it will only focus to infinity at apertures larger than f/16 with the rarer-than-hen’s-teeth No. 0 Distance lens, which clips over the lens – luckily I have a couple of them

To digress for a moment – although the film itself was nominally 16mm wide, there the commonality ended. Some manufacturers went with un-perforated film, others had a single row of perforations, while a few had double – 110 was different again. This was all down to the film transport mechanism, which varied by model.

And the cassette design varied too.

Different designs of 16mm film cassettes, different sizes, different formats
The 16mm cassette jungle, from left to right: 110; Minolta 16; Kiev 16; Mamiya 16 (3D printed); Mamiya 16 brass cassettes; Rollei 16

Early Mamiya 16mm cameras had individual brass cassettes, one for the feed side and one for the take-up, and it was the take-up side that engaged with the film advance mechanism, pulling the film across the shutter gate. They later went for a single plastic unit with a thin bridge between the two sides, as per the established Minox design. Minolta went straight for the single plastic type, but with different dimensions to Mamiya. Rollei went for a conventional single cassette approach which required a rewind mechanism to be built into the camera’s small chassis, and the Soviet Kiev 30 (a direct copy of the Minolta 16 II, made in Ukraine) was different again, close to the Minolta dimensions, but not identical – the Minolta cassette will fit in the Kiev, but not the other way round.

It’s easy to see, therefore, why the simplicity of Kodak’s 110 drop-in cartridge was so appealing. 110 films could also be handled by every high street photographic lab, while the special handling needed for 16mm made it more niche, and therefore costly.

The final step is to get the films developed. The reels that come with modern home developing tanks (Paterson, AP, Jobo etc) don’t go as small as 16mm, so I had to buy a 1960s vintage Paterson Universal 3 tank which contains a single reel. So, I was resigned to developing one film at a time in a sixty-year-old, slightly leaky, plastic tank.

The 1960s Paterson Universal 3 tank is one of the only tanks designed to develop 16mm film, and can also be used to develop 110 film
Anyone want to buy a 1964 Paterson Universal 3 tank? Or two of them? The Universal 3 is one of the only tanks that was specifically designed to develop the relatively short-lived 16mm film format, but also allows you to develop 110 film

That was until those top chaps from Ausgeknipst in Würzburg, Germany came to the rescue.

<a href="https://ausgeknipst.de/en"> <img src="w3c.png" alt="Ausgeknipst home English"> </a>

Ausgeknipst came to my attention when I was looking for accessories for some of my more obscure cameras – they design, and 3D print, a bewildering range of products that will keep any analogue photography fanatic satisfied! They sent me four of their Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 developing spirals to test in my Paterson Super System 4 tank (which will also fit the AP tank), and they do a version that fit Jobo tanks too. I’ve bought quite a few 3D printed accessories since I’ve been a born-again film photographer, but these Ausgeknipst reels are some of the best finished products I’ve come across. They twist together and come apart better than many of the injection moulded reels I have, and the films were so easy to load, as we’ll see …

The design and finish of these 3D printed developing reels is excellent
The Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 developing spirals, assembled, and separated.

One great advantage of these Ausgeknipst reels is that you can fit up to four of them onto the spigot from a standard two-35mm-reel Paterson tank. If you’re feeling bold, you can get two 16mm/110 films onto each reel, so that’s eight films per tank!

You can develop up to eight films in one twin-35mm Paterson Super System 4 tank. two per reel, and four reels to a tank
One reel, two reels, three reels, four. All in one tank.
The compact design of the Ausgeknipst 16mm developing reels allow you to mix the formats in the same developing tank
You can load a combination of different formats in the same tank – get the best use of your chemicals

So, how to go about loading these marvellous reels?

Recommend using a DIY film 'cassette' made from a cut-down 35mm film canister to avoid having film snaking round your work bench
Although this would all be in the dark, these are the elements you need to load your own 16mm film using the Ausgeknipst reels

Removing the film from the cassettes has to be done in total darkness, of course. Although it’s sensible to tape the film compartments shut when handling and loading them into cameras, they come apart very easily to develop, and you’re left with eighteen or so inches of film snaking around on your bench. To help handle the film in the dark, I’ve made myself a little gizmo from a cut-down 35mm film canister. I cut a vertical slot in the side and lined it with photographer’s gaffer tape. Roll the film up holding the edges, feed the end through the slot, and then pop the lid on. It now handles a bit like a 35mm cassette and reduces the risk of damaging the delicate film emulsion as you load it onto the reel.

This DIY film 'cassette' helps to avoid damaging the delicate film emulsion as you load it
Using a home-made film cassette to help load your 16mm film onto the Ausgeknipst developing reels stops the film from twisting and helps avoid damaging the delicate emulsion

As with 35mm film, it helps to trim the corners off the end of the film. Whilst this can be done in the light on 35mm, I’ve yet to find a solution for trimming 16mm/110 in total darkness without risking permanent damage to your fingertips. A pair of toenail scissors (!) proved to be just as hazardous as scissors … the quest continues.

Sharp corners on the end of the film can catch on the grooves and ribs of the reel, so it's best to trim them off, albeit, in the dark
To aid the smooth loading of your film … in the dark … it’s advisable to trim the corners of the end, just as you would with 35mm

The Ausgeknipst reels work like conventional developing reels, albeit without the ball bearings, which can sometimes be more trouble than they’re worth. They use the same shuffle loading motion, and gentle alternating pressure from your thumbs on each side as you rotate the reels is enough to smoothly feed the film into the spirals. The ‘gates’ at the start of the spirals are very smooth, and the outer edge of each reel has a useful indentation where your thumb naturally sits. Ausgeknipst are looking at putting a small pip or mark just above the gates to help orientate the reel in the dark.

The loading action with the Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 reels is very similar to the injection moulded reels from Paterson or AP, albeit without the ball bearing
The Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 developing reel uses the same twist-shuffle movement as conventional plastic reels, although there are no ball bearings to hold the edges of the film. With a narrow film like 16mm/110, this actually makes it easier

With the film safely inside the loading ‘cassette’ (or snaking around on your bench … your choice), insert the trimmed end into the spiral between the gates – the ‘cassette’ will stop it from twisting as it unravels.

The actual loading of the film onto the Ausgeknipst reel is really easy, the film feeds smoothly into the grooves and fed in with a twisting shuffle movement similar to a conventional plastic moulded reel
Although it has to be done in total darkness, the loading of film onto the Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 developing reel is surprisingly easy, using a similar shuffle movement as the conventional injection moulded reels from Paterson, AP or Jobo

Then, with your thumbs resting in the indentations on the outer rim of the reels, gently press the film into the recess in the rim and rotate the reel back and forth, alternating the pressure on each side. This ‘shuffling’ will gently pull the film out of the ‘cassette’ and feed it into the spiral. The ‘cassette’ will fall away at the end of the film, and a couple more shuffles and the whole of the film is safely in the grooves of the spiral. You can then pop the reel onto the tank’s spigot and move onto the next film.

Ausgeknipst say it’s possible to fit two whole 16mm/110 films into one of the reels. I would probably try to splice the two films together with a small piece of tape (again, in the dark) to reduce the risk of them overlapping in the grooves and not developing properly, but the concept of developing eight films per tank load is attractive.

As with all these things, it helps to practice with a length of spare film – your local lab should let you have films that came out blank to practice with.

When it comes to the developing, proceed as with any other film. I found that for a Paterson tank, a single reel requires 160ml of liquid to completely cover it, but then just 120ml for each additional reel (therefore, 1 reel – 160ml, 2 reels – 280ml, 3 reels – 400ml, and 4 reels – 520ml). Obviously if you mix other formats with the 16mm/110 reels, you need to fill accordingly – I found that two 16mm films and one 35mm film needed the full 600ml. Jobo, AP, or other tanks will need slightly different quantities.

Once developed, removing the films from the reels is really easy – a small amount of backwards rotation unlocks the two halves with a satisfying ‘click’ (much less force than is needed for an injection moulded reel) and the film can be lifted out and hung up to dry. The reels can then be washed and dried as normal.

These reels from Ausgeknipst were a joy to use and make home-developing 16mm/110 films so much easier, with much less chance of mucking it up! I am looking forward to seeing what other magic those Würzburg wizards can conjure.

For more information on the Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 developing reels, click Ausgeknipst 16mm/110 developing reel for Paterson and Jobo tanks.
For more information on the author, visit www.andrewlong.info/photography, and www.andrewlong.info where you can see his books on Cold War history.
You can also find him on Facebook, Instagram, LinkedIn, Flickr.

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Comments

Gerard on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

How I loved my tiny Voigtländer Vitoret 110, wonderful little camera I used in the 70's.
I too developed my B&W films myself. A Spanish brand it was, can't remember the name at the moment.
I made 13x18 prints myself, which were - technically, at least - pretty good. Yeah, they were a bit grainy, about as grainy as a 24x30 print shot on Tri-X, so no worries.
Unfortunately, it broke down beyond repair, but I have still very good memories, both on paper and in my mind
Thank for sharing your adventures using this tiny cameras and mini films.
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

Thanks, Gerard. I've got a bunch of 110 cameras, but I'm waiting for the Ausgeknipst reloadable 110 cassette to really put them through their paces. I may eventually master the loading-an-old-110-cassette-without-slicing-off-a-finger trick, but I'm not rushing things. And then I can chuck all sorts of different film stocks in to see how they perform. I'm shooting on a Minolta 110 Zoom Mk.II SLR at the mo with Tiger, and also have a couple of Mk.Is too. Plus loads of Pentax Auto 110s in various stages of functionality. I'll take a look at the Vitoret, as I love my Voigtländer 35mm rangefinder.

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Gerard replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

you are really head over heels into the mini camera world. The Voigtländer I have is very small, and with its clip it may be carried like a Fountain pen. Lomography introduced a series of 110 cassares cameras; they seem worth having look at them! Lots of fun in the miniature world!

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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

The Vitoret is a cute looking camera and looks very pocketable. Vitoret's a name used with their 35mm rangefinder/compact cameras, so I imagine they saw this new fangled 110 format coming along and slapped their brand on a bought-in 110 camera - that's certainly what Minox did with their 110s, although it's a well spec'd camera with a decent lens. There's a 110 camera that uses the just cartridge as its body, with a plastic assembly fitting over the middle bit, presumably light-tight, that acts as viewfinder, shutter etc. Can't imagine the pictures are that good from it. The Lomography 110 looks good, and what they're doing for the analogue film sector in general is brilliant. What I can't tell from the pictures is whether it has some heft to it, or whether it feels lightweight and plasticy.

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Gerard on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

110 film cassette.
suddenly I remembered the name of the Spanish B&W 110 film cassette: Neropan.
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Eric Lorenz on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

I had to chuckle a little at "... your local lab should let you have films..." Here in the US, finding a local lab, especially one that still does 16mm/110 in-house...is a tall order. I would say with a fair amount of accuracy that there are no if any real "1-hour" labs anymore- the majority of us is are not lucky enough to live in a city with any kind of processing lab at all. I am lucky- here in Wichita KS there is *1* lab that still does 35/120 C-41 and E-6... but like most, they'll be a wait until a batch with enough to make it worth their while to run fills.

Otherwise you're left to send off to a lab somewhere else- where at this time of the summer can be stressful for your films.
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

Hi Eric, I live in the back end of beyond in the far southwest of the UK and it's very rare that we can lay claim to having anything down here (we only got electricity a couple of years back ... only kidding, but you get the idea), but I am lucky to have a lab in my local city, Truro (in fact it's the only city in Cornwall). @allaboutframestruro can handle pretty much anything apart from E6 and Minox, and they're really nice guys. Sorry, the only thing I know about Wichita is that you've a very famous Lineman ...

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Zheng Li on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

Thanks for sharing your experience Andrew! I have tried to develop 16mm film in stainless steel reels, and found the experience extremely fiddly and frustrating. Recently I switched to 3D printed reels from Etsy, which does not have the ratcheting feature of Ausgeknipst Reels. The Etsy reels work well for short length Minolta 16 film, but it is yet to be seen if it is good with longer 110 film.

At least now I have one more potential reel candidate to try out.

On another topic, all the 16mm film holders for scanners are quite fiddly too. Especially if the film is not perfectly flat. Other than using digital cameras and macro lens, do you recommend any scanning holders?
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

I don't know much about stainless steel reels. In the UK they're not as common because of the dominant role Paterson plastic played in the growth of home developing back in the day. Film Stuff Lab from Salt Lake City sell 3D printed stuff on Etsy as well as making the .stl files available to home printers. Some unscrupulous characters, however, have ripped off his design and are selling it as their own, which is not ideal. Anyway, if you have a Paterson or Jobo tank, the Ausgeknipst reels are really well designed/printed and work perfectly. As for scanning - I'm a DSLR scanner and I use the Valoi easy35 system with a Nikon D5600 and a manual focus Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8 (I'll do a post for 35mmc on it soon). Valoi have a 110 film holder, which obviously works for 16mm, and works really well. I've never used a conventional scanner, I'm afraid. I've got the 35mm, 110/16mm, and Minox holders. It needs setting up for each film type, as the combination of tubes varies (plus to get the tiny Minox neg to fill the sensor you have to reverse the lens!), but after a bit of faff, you can note down the permutations and it speeds up the format changes. Then all you have to do is focus the camera by zooming right in, looking for something crisp, sometimes even using the grain to focus on. Then you can rattle through a film in about 5 minutes, with really good results. The images in the post were scanned this way. Ausgeknipst also have a (https://ausgeknipst.de/en/products/110-pocketfilm-filmhalter-fur-dslr-smartphone-dslr-easy-film-scanner) holder that you can use with a light source and a DSLR - I have one to test, but haven't got round to it yet.

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Gary Smith on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

That is quite the collection of small cameras!

Thanks for your article (although I doubt that I'll ever develop film that narrow in the time remaining).
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

It's a slippery slope going down the sub-miniature rabbit hole, but great fun. I guess the same could be said about going the other way, but I don't see myself going large format any time soon! Mind you, I probably said that about 16mm!

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JA on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

the normal patterson reels are very easy to modify for 16mm you can still use them for 35mm aswell.
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

I haven't seen a 16mm mod for a Paterson reel, although I have a crudely hacked down reel for Minox. The nice thing about these Ausgeknipst reels is that you can fit four of them in a standard 2 x 35mm Paterson tank, or mix and match with 16mm/110 and 35mm. In theory, I presume the Minox reels, that are on their way to me to test, will also mix and match. I can see myself standardising on a film stock across formats (something like Delta 100, or HR-50) and developing 35mm, 16mm, and Minox all in the same tank!

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JA replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

yeah the 4 in one go is quite a trick. you cut the female core of a Patterson reel down. this means you lose the click size setting but an ilford canister with bottom and lip cut of creates a perfect friction fit. the ballbearing system remains perfectly. and to return it to 35mm. you place the inner core on a flat surface and push the reel flat down. handy if you only do the occasion 16mm especially if as you say you can lob it in with the same filmstock of differen sizes. its sounds a bit hacked together but actually overall its pretty seamless in use. just an option, i will share it on here if i remember.

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JA replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

meant to say. the little keeper box for holding it all together during darkbag shenanigans is inspired

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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

The idea behind the loading canister thingy came from a problem I was encountering with loading 35mm film onto reels, the dreaded reverse curl phenomenon, where the end of the film is curling the opposite way to the rest of the roll because of the way it has been attached to the take up spool in the camera. It'll fight you all the way, so the easiest thing to do is abandon loading the film from that end, unspool the whole roll from the cassette and load it from the other end. The plastic film canister stops the film from snaking around on the bench, or in the darkroom and allows you to take back control of it while you try to get it loaded. The 16mm version is simply a cut down version of this.

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JA replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

yeah, good idea. I once spent a frustrating ten minutes trying to thread a 120 backing paper onto a reel. in my defence it was ho, was sitting on the floor and the dog decided it was walk time so repeatedly punching me with her paw.

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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

Ah, the perils of pets in the darkroom, or wherever you do your developing! Mine are banned from the darkroom, but that doesn't stop them trying. The dog's not too much of an issue, apart from wanting to lay down in the middle of the floor (where he is now, as it happens) but the cats want to jump up on the bench and casually throw things off (lenses, films, magnifiers etc etc) if they're not getting the attention (or snacks) that they so clearly deserve ... It's an ongoing confrontation :-)

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Chris on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

Hello Andrew thanks for the interesting article. I’ve been tempted to do something similar with an old Kodak Instamatic and the cartridge kits they sell… that’s a camera that reminds me of my childhood. I’m curious how do you scan them?
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 28/06/2025

I have the FAKMATIC adapter from camerahack.it which lets you run 35mm through the 126 Instamatic. It's probably the one you're talking about. I've had it for ages so must give it a go. Scanning's pretty straightforward with the right kit. I use the Valoi easy35 system, which bolts onto a DSLR and lens (in my case, a Nikon D5600 and a manual focus Micro-Nikkor 55mm f/2.8). The system has a light box with slot-in film holders (I have the 35mm, 110/16mm, and Minox holders), and a series of tubes which screw onto the front of the lens. My varying the combination of tubes, you can adjust the picture of the neg captured by the camera to fill up the sensor (with Minox you have to reverse the lens using an adapter to get the necessary magnification). Takes a bit of experimentation to optimise the combination of tubes etc to suit your lens and sensor size, but then it's remarkably quick to use. Just focus the lens on a zoomed in view of the neg, zoom back out and start snapping! The quality is really good. I tether the camera straight into Lightroom on my Mac, which streamlines the process. I'll do an article on it for 35mmc.

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Marco Andrés on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 29/06/2025

Glad that you’ve discovered 16mm/110 formats and the even smaller Minox. Delighted that Ausgeknipst sells a 3d-printed 110 developing reel compatible with Patterson tanks.

110 developing reel

Have 3d printed this stl file of a 110/16mm developing reel:
https://www.printables.com/model/136957-pa-110-a-11016mm-film-development-reel-v2-paterson

The reel seems similar to the one from Ausgeknipst. Used it to develop b/w Lomography film for Rollei A110 images.
https://www.35mmc.com/24/05/2024/5-frames-testing-two-rollei-a110-cameras/

Loading 16mm film onto the reel is really easy [compared to two others tested]. Have to agree with the developer’s statement:
« Improvements include shorter film ribs, twist-locking, and anti-crawl-back ridge! »

110 reloadable cartridge

Ausgeknipst also makes a reloadable 3d printed 110 cartridge. Presumably your next piece will describe that particular reloadable cartridge in use.

Tried 3d printing one 110 cartridge. Bottom line – proved problematic to print and use.

In contrast a newer one [updated 2025 05 12], also on Printables. is much easier to print, load and use with setting with higher speed [ISO 400] film..
https://www.printables.com/model/1294190-110-film-cartridge/files
Fits together quite well, printing without supports but with a 2 layer raft and a 10mm outer brim.

Unfortunately it does not have a proper 13mm x 17mm frame for the image. Could as the developer suggests, add « flocking tape to the entrance of each spool ».

Requires remixing: to change the notch to lower speed film [ISO 100] and to accommodate a frame. Will report back later.
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 29/06/2025

The world of 3D printing is new to me, but I'm gradually getting drawn into it! It's great there's a sharing mentality between printers, although that poses an intellectual property dilemma for those who do it commercially. I know of one designer/printer in the States who's had his design ripped off and sold on Etsy as the seller's own design, which is unfortunate. The finish and functionality of the Ausgeknipst products exceeds what a home printer can do, as far as I am aware. I'll certainly do a post about the Ausgeknipst reloadable 110 cartridge - along with the Minox developing reels, that is the item I'm most excited about. The 110 cartridge will hopefully let me reliably experiment with different film stocks, and the Minox reel will let me develop multiple rolls in the same tank, with less danger of it fouling up.

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Vlad replied:

Comment posted: 29/06/2025

Hey Marco, thanks for sharing the designs you found. Very helpful for everyone with his/her own printer :) as you already found out some of the designs that can be found online won't print reliably with every printer and/or are just of bad quality. Still, if you like tinkering thats a valid option!

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Ibraar Hussain on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 29/06/2025

This is such a fascinating wonderfully written and inspirational post
Makes me want to dabble
The 50ies cassette loading instructions seems quite straight forward!

Some of those 16mm miniature cameras are works of art
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Andrew Long replied:

Comment posted: 29/06/2025

Thanks Ibraar. Dabbling in the sub-miniature world is a lot of fun, and the results can be impressive. Yes, the cameras are gorgeous. It was the even smaller Minox 'spy' cameras that got me back into film photography last year, and those are miniature engineering marvels. I'll be doing more posts on Minox and the whole spy thing!

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Ibraar Hussain replied:

Comment posted: 29/06/2025

Nice nice!!! Looking forward to it I’ve the last few months been enjoying small zone focus cameras and naturally I’d like to try something even smaller and ostensibly more challenging One camera I really like is the Ricoh Golden 16.

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Vlad @ausgeknipst.de on Ausgeknipst Reels – Developing 16mm (or 110) in the Paterson tank

Comment posted: 30/06/2025

Hey Andrew, thanks a lot for sharing your insightful thoughts on your developing process. Really glad that we can help the 16mm community with their scan and dev process :)! Greetings Vlad
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