Evora, Portugal

Évora, Portugal with a Leica MP & Foma 100

By Geoff Chaplin

Not only photogenic, historic and interesting (a UNESCO world heritage site, European Capital of Culture for 2027), Évora also has a superb hotel in a converted former nunnery and most importantly an excellent wine cellar. Being the capital city of the Alentejo wine producing region this is to be expected. This was our fourth or fifth visit and although Évora is a small city it’s hard to tire of its medieval centre, narrow streets and alleyways, bars and restaurants, and many little architectural gems. For a proper description see https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/%C3%89vora.

Photographs were taken on my Leica MP with Zeiss Planar 50mm lens on Foma 100 and stand developed in Rodinal 100:1, scanned with a BlackBox 135 and Sigma 105mm macro on a Sony A7Riii, processed in RawTherapee. Some photographs were taken early in the morning with low light but generally taken in good light and often with a red filter.

The 16th century well-preserved ‘Prata Aqueduct’ brought water from 9km away in the north-west. The structure dominates the view on one side of the city and leads into the rising ground of the city with small shops and businesses nestled under its slowly diminishing arches. The featured image shows the aqueduct leading into the city taken from the main road just outside the city wall.

Evora, Portugal
Foreground to background: hotel grounds, city wall, aqueduct
Evora, Portugal
A business under one of the arches inside the city
Evora, Portugal
Looking along the aqueduct inside the city
Evora, Portugal
Arches gradually diminish in height – this one too low for a car to pass

The medieval centre was surrounded by the city wall, in part remaining, separating the historic part of town from the less interesting more recent parts.

Evora, Portugal
The city wall, from outside

One of the main attractions of medieval towns is the layout of the narrow cobbled sometimes meandering streets. One thing that struck me afterwards, especially when reviewing my images, is how similar many medieval cities are at the street level – Evora, Cascais, Brussels, parts of Lisbon, Carcassonne, even Sucre (Bolivia), and others. How similar were inhabitants lives then … and now? Has much changed other than the street furniture in modern cities?

Making our way through the streets sometimes barely wide enough for a car to drive through (and they do drive through), occasionally leads to unexpectedly dilapidated corners but also interesting little bars. At first it’s easy to get lost but it can never last long – you either get to the city wall or to the main thoroughfare.

Evora, Portugal
Follow me
Evora, Portugal
A grotty corner
Evora, Portugal
Yes, cars drive down here
Evora, Portugal
This bar boasts a cat

Heading back to the main thoroughfare through the city brings us to the central open square with bars, restaurants and crowds even in December, and a church.

Evora, Portugal
Main square – Praca do Giraldo
Evora, Portugal
Church of Santa Antao

Quickly tiring of the crowds after a refreshing orange juice we head up to the cathedral and the nearby remains of the Roman temple dedicated to Emperor Augustus. The remains are surrounded by a small park and from the far edge there is an elevated view of part of the city and the countryside beyond.

Evora, Portugal
Roman Temple ruins

Light on a wall and the shadow of a lamp catch my attention.

Evora, Portugal
Light and shade

 

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About The Author

By Geoff Chaplin
Primarily a user of Leica film cameras and 8x10 for the past 30 years, recently a mix of film and digital. Interests are concept and series based art work. Professionally trained in astronomical photography, a scientist and mathematician.
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Comments

Daniel Emerson on Évora, Portugal with a Leica MP & Foma 100

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

Hi Geoff,
Super enjoyed your photo essay..Interesting repeating patterns, wall textures, great shadow detail and sharp interesting features in detail like windows and the houses . These characteristics add to the interesting alleyways, facades, houses and walls. Particularly liked the the outer wall and tree shot.

I wouldn't mind some hints on your use of Rodinal. I have all but given up on it. I generally shoot with Fomafilm 200, processing 50+1 using 10 ml in 500 ml water for a 135-36 film. The result is large grain clusters so that uniform tones, sky for example, looks like salt and pepper. Nothing like you have here. Actually lost the last film. A faint image.

I would like to know which brand of Rodinal you use? How long do you typically store an opened bottle? What is your total volume of developer in your 100 + 1 soup?

Thanks
Dan Emerson
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

Many thanks for the comments Dan, much appreciated. I have three articles on this site related specifically to Rodinal - search for "Development Tests, Part 1: ....." and Part 2, plus "Ancient Orwo ....". These will probably answer most of your questions. If any further questions I'll be happy to answer, plus add a couple more comments.

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andy hertig replied:

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

HI Dan I am using Fomapan 100/400 since over 5 years, always developed in ADONAL (Rodinal from Adox) with 1:100 for 40 min stand (one very soft turn after 20min). Regarding the grain; it is visible quite often and too much, but otherwise the film is quite sharp and on a good price point. Results here: https://instagram.com/f16.ch Kind Regards, Andy

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Pedro Candelaria on Évora, Portugal with a Leica MP & Foma 100

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

Well done! The city is fantastic and has a very lovely temple with a very handy fountain. I've visited many times, including during the summer with temperatures around 46ºc. NOT RECOMMENDED! Lovely photos Geoff!
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

Pedro, many thanks, nice to hear from someone who knows the place well. I understand about the fountain!

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Daniel Emerson on Évora, Portugal with a Leica MP & Foma 100

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

Thanks Geoff
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Gary Smith on Évora, Portugal with a Leica MP & Foma 100

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

I've never been to western Europe (other than the Netherlands) and your shots of Évora have triggered a desire to travel to Portugal. I'm a big fan of Port wine and blue cheese. Great images and I really like "Light and shade".
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 05/05/2024

Thanks Gary. Portugal, and parts of Spain (Seville, Alhambra and others) are very special - worth a trip!

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Ibraar Hussain on Évora, Portugal with a Leica MP & Foma 100

Comment posted: 07/05/2024

Enjoyed this a lot and makes me want to travel there!
As always your captivating distinctive and original style shines in the photography!!
Thanks man!!
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Geoff Chaplin replied:

Comment posted: 07/05/2024

You're welcome Ibraar, and thanks. I imagine children might be bored there but a day trip centred on Lisbon and Cascais could work well for a family and a photographer (or two).

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Ibraar Hussain replied:

Comment posted: 07/05/2024

Thanks Geoff. I usually travel alone! Best way to I think.

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