I think that it would be unfair to judge and review Pentax MZ-S separately from the FA Limited line of lenses – it’s my opinion that you have to look at them together as one set. They look good together, they are good in use together, and they are all ODD together. There is something about this kit that reminds me of the Contax G2 with its 45mm, 28mm and 90mm lenses. I understand that this argument may sound a bit strange, but for me this comparison somehow confirms that this kit should be reviewed as one.
This lens set is the holly trinity of close-to-classical focal lengths: There is photojournalists or walk-around normal 43mm lens, the classic wide 31mm lens and portrait 77mm. Then there is a lens-and-body control philosophy that ties them all together. The camera is and looks modern, but it’s still made to be controlled in “classical” way; aperture control on lens ring and shutter control via a shutter dial.
The Pentax MZ-S and lenses are tailored to each other, but this is a very specific package, a quality one, but – as I say – an odd one. It’s not going everybody’s “cup of tea” – most will either love it or hate it. At first I was drawn to lenses but was skeptical about camera, but in time we blended perfectly together to the point that now it’s my main 35mm film set. As such, my aim here is to draw a bit of deserved attention to this overlooked set and to share my personal experience of it.
Bit of a history
The Pentax MZ-S was one of last film models from Pentax. It was introduced in 2001 and produced until 2006. The Pentax MZ-S was aimed at the enthusiast and pro user market, but to me it looks more of enthusiast camera – though this is my own subjective opinion based on my views about build robustness and speed of function. A “Pro” film camera of the time was the Nikon F5, the MZ-S feels like more of a competitor to the Nikon F100 or F90.
The first lens, introduced in 1997, was the 43mm. This was followed by the 77mm in 1999 and 31mm in 2001. The Pentax MZ-S body appeared after all three lenses were made available. All three lenses were created by same man, lens designer was Jun Hirakawa. My personal assumption is that the camera body was stylistically and ideologically tailored to use the limited lenses. This seems logical to me; top of the line body with top of the line lenses.
Pentax MZ-S: Body design
There are some distinct features that instantly cache the eye looking at the Pentax MZ-S. The angled top panel, the uniquely designed right control wheel, the drive and metering switches, the green button on front/top side, and the left side control wheel.
First of all, the slanted panel makes camera body to look very unusual. To me, at first sight, I thought it looked strange – I didn’t liked it much. After I began to understand the logic behind it (and my eye got used to it) it started to seem natural. The main logic to the slanted top was to give comfort to the user – all top placed controls might be seen from top of the camera and from behind the camera at all times.
The slanted panel also makes the Pentax MZ-S look bigger than it actually is – the prism hump is very small, because camera’s “shoulders” are raised. At first sight you see beefy looking aggressive athlete of a camera body; a bone breaker. In reality its quite compact, take a look again at the picture of the set above and compare it the size to Fuji Klasse and you’ll see the real size. To me camera size is almost perfect; I’d describe it as a mid-sized SLR that – together with its properly shaped grip – is the most comfortable camera body I ever held and shot.
Lets start with right side of the top of the Pentax MZ-S. The biggest part of right side is dedicated to right control wheel. the main function of this wheel is shutter speed dial, in other modes – and if you are in Pentax special functions menu (a bit later about them) – this wheel lets you to toggle between desired settings.
The dial stands out of camera body a bit and its edges are angled and it has ribs. The ribs enable you to grip it and comfortably rotate with one thumb. The dial has some resistance and rotates with satisfying click stops. I dare to say that ability to rotate it with one finger and the tactile feeling it gives make it one of best shutter speed control dials I used.
The centre of this dial is LCD screen, where you can see all main setting info: mode, frame count, shutter speed, aperture, other settings. Just below the dial there is a “Hold” switch – it is used to lock setting dial in order to avoid accidental changes.
To the right side of the “Hold” slider is the AE-L button – for AE modes this will be self explanatory. Behind AE button is the screen illumination button – this one helps to see settings in the dark. It’s worth mentioning that it not only illuminates the screen but also a lens changing alignment mark as-well.
On the top, to the right of the main control dial, you see drive switch. The self timer is 12 seconds or 2 seconds with mirror lock up – selected via the Pentax special functions (see below). Then there is a metering switch with spot, centre-weighted and multi segment options.
The top left side of camera is where things get complicated at first sight… ant they are still complicated at second sight too. The dial seems to be overcrowded, but when you get used to it, its OK. Simple things first – see that switch behind dial? Its a lock button, you have to press it in order to move dial. Then this dial (the outer part) works as exposure compensation dial. Then on the other side of dial, opposite the “0” you can see manual ISO override/set. Inside exposure compensation dial there is internal bracketing dial; you can set bracketing off, or you can chose between half and full stop bracketing.
Top centre of camera contains in-build pop up flash.
The back of camera has data back, that lets (if you need it) to print date and/or time of exposure. I don’t need it, so I switch this function off. On the back of the right side there is AF button that activates auto0-focusing without usual half press of shutter button.
On the front of camera, on the left side is a flash button – but as I never ever used flash on this camera I have no idea what it does. Below the flash button is focusing switch with options for manual focusing, single and continue focusing.
The top front side of the Pentax MZ-S contains shutter button, and ON / OFF and DOF preview switch. The shutter button on this camera is very well implemented soft, with good transition between half press and full press.
The right side of camera contains lens release button, focus point selector switch (one of only few criticism for camera – this is not convenient to use) and green exposure mode reset button.
The Pentax MZ-S offers standard exposure modes: Program, Aperture priority, Shutter priority and Manual modes. What’s a bit different from other cameras is how those modes are accessed.
To set program mode, you set the lenses aperture ring to the “A” position and you are in program mode. If you want to switch to shutter priority, start to rotate shutter dial and camera understands that you want to leave aperture control to the cameras metering system and control shutter speed manually. Want to shoot manual? You set aperture ring on lens on any position other than “A” and you are already in manual mode. In case you want to go to aperture priority from manual – hit exposure mode reset button and you done. As such, using different exposure modes and switching between them is very fluent and natural on this camera.
The Pentax MZ-S Viewfinder
Big, bright, good eye relief are the first things you notice. It also has very well implemented exposure readings – everything is displayed in the lower part of the viewfinder, readings are brightly lit and visible even in strong light. The display shows: aperture, shutter speed, in focus indication, selected focus point and exposure / exposure compensation bar. The viewfinder magnification is 0.75 with a 92% coverage – this fact combined with the eye relief were main factors as to I started to look at this camera. It’s one of most comfortable cameras I have used for spectacle wearers.
Note – there is also diopter correction in viewfinder, with ability to adjust from -2.5 to +1.5.
As I mentioned previously camera has 3 modes for metering. Centre-weighted metering is a quite straightforward thing – I barely use it and find there is nothing to say about it.
Spot metering is my goto setting for 99% of all shots – its reliable and accurate. One thing to note: you have to know what you are doing with spot metering. You have to meter the main subject in the frame and apply exposure compensation based on main subject colour, and your vision for particular shot. This is not a camera related thing though, more general spot metering related issues.
Then there is multi segment metering, which is worth few extra words. There’s 6 zones for meter – the Pentax MZ-S meter thinks about scene contrast and suggests proper exposure. It can detect and compensate for backlight scenes – which I think is good for people who are just starting to understand light and metering. As for me, I use multi segment metering only in low contrast scenes and don’t have extensive experience of this highly intelligent mode – you can blame my experience in metering and paranoiac need to decide and do everything by myself.
But, the most interesting and unique function of multi segment metering and exposure determination algorithm in the Pentax MZ-S is that this camera is able to read exposure latitude form film DX canister (if this info is present), take into account lens resolution (if this is coded in lens electronics) and take all this info into account when suggesting exposure settings.
The Pentax MZ-S also has an exposure setting imprint function. Now this is a quite cool function! What you get is sort of a analog exif; on the film, above the frame between film perforation holes it prints basic exposure info, such as: exposure mode, metering system, shutter speed, aperture, exposure compensation value. This imprinted information should help to learn exposure by analysing shot scene and selected values. Combined with the DX code reading, this should be awesome guide to learn tricky exposures.
Three modes are present for focusing. Single AF is quite fast. I don’t have and hadn’t used any modern, fast focusing cameras, so I can only compare it to Pentax MZ-3, where it feels twice as fast. Admittedly, thats a feeling, I haven’t actually measured focusing speed… It’s also very accurate – I very rarely have hunting or missed focus shot. Autofocus is screw driven, so there is some noise.
I don’t use AF-C (continuous focus), so cant comment on it’s speed or accuracy.
Manual focus is really good. I use some manual focus for 70% of all my shots and I can easily see on the screen when my subject comes into focus – focus “snap” is quite evident. There is no split prism or micro-prism for visual focus aids, but I can say firmly, that with this camera I do feel the same confidence in focusing I have with manual focus cameras.
There is also an electronic focus aid if you need to – the focus indicator lights up when the subject in the selected focus point comes into focus. You can turn on/of aa audio signal “beep” if you wish too.
It’s worth noting, that the Pentax MZ-S has 6 user selectable focus points, though the spread of these point is not very wide. There is a line of 5 focus points in horizontal centre of viewfinder, with one of those points at very centre of vf. Then there is one additional point – vertical centre above central vf spot – the idea of this additional point is to place it where human face should be if you soot horizontal portrait.
For 100% of my shots I use the centre spot. But there is a switch to set auto point selection, where camera guess where the main subject is. I don’t use it in practice, but tried to use it just out of curiosity when writing this review. It actually works quite well. You can switch focus point manually too, but this is where one of main ergonomic issues of this camera comes into play. You have to move a switch situated near lens with right hand, and whilst holding it you have to rotate main dial (again with right hand). This procedure is very awkward, but lucky me – I don’t need it!
There is a legend that this camera drains batteries, I read it in several places that battery lasts only a couple of rolls and was afraid that this was to be the case, but it isn’t. In fact I don’t see any difference in battery life comparing to MZ-3 or MZ-5N, from two CR2 batteries you can get approx 15 – 20 rolls of film.
On the left side camera control dial there is a “PF” marking. By choosing it you open a menu of what the manufacturer calls “Pentax functions”. There is 19 of them, some are useful and quite unique, some not, the list of available functions is here:
F1 – enabling or disabling audio focus confirmation signal
F2 – setting exposure program lines
F3 – setting the number of auto bracketing exposures
F4 – setting auto-bracketing sequence
F5 – during multi-segment metering, the autoexposure reading can be taken or not taken at the point of selected autofocus point
F6 – setting of backs AF button to only focus or focus and obtain exposure reading
F7 – set ISO manually or automatically
F8 – if focusing on selected focus point is impossible you can select or not to use neighbouring focus point
F9 – enabling / disabling shutter release before build-in flash is ready
F10 – setting build-in flash as a flash or wireless controller in the wireless mode
F11 – setting the firing method when using the illumination button with the AF360FGZ in the wireless mode
F12 – setting the film rewind to rewind completely or to leave out film leader for mid-roll film change
F13 – setting the film rewind method (automatic or manual) at the end of the roll
F14 – choosing of self timer delay between 12 sec or 2 sec with mirror lock up
F15 – setting the film speed for imprinting data
F16 – focusing with or without the shutter button pressed halfway down
F17 – setting the select dial rotating orientation for advancing numeric value
F18 – enabling or disabling the lens mount index lamp
F19 – with optional battery grip attached, setting the remote control button to release the shutter in 3 sec or immediately
A balance between main and advanced functions.
All main functions are comfortably placed where they should be, and in general, in terms of ergonomics for basic/pure photography it’s almost perfect. The Pentax MZ-S has some advanced functions and sometimes it’s not the easiest thing to access and use them.
As such, I have two versions of what happened during design of camera. Either designers failed to give convenient access to most advanced functions, or their had a goal to make a simple camera not overcrowded with buttons and dials, so if user need more – he had to dig a bit deeper.
If this is failure or great achievement or design will come down to the user. As for me, I found this design philosophy a revelation. The hidden functions I just need to set one time giving me a set and forget body that’s a purist joy. In this regard this camera design philosophy reminds me a bit of Fuji Klasse S compact camera – another favourite of mine!
This camera, as almost all Pentax camera bodies, opens up possibility to explore very vide variety of Pentax legacy lenses. For the sake of this article I will stop only on three of them I mentioned at the start. But, be aware, there are more hidden gems in lineup! And with Pentax system to this day remaining somewhat underrated, they are therefore often quite affordable.
All three of my lenses are metal with a very solid build! All of them have aperture rings. The 31mm and 77mm lenses have integrated lens hoods, and the 43mm lens has screw in lens hood that is so well tailored to lens that I wouldn’t hesitate to call it integrated. The 43mm and 77mm lenses use 49mm filters and 31mm use 58mm filter. All three lenses are autofocus lenses, but if you use them for manual focusing they feel nice to use. The focus throw is adequate, resistance is perfect, the feel is almost the same as a dedicated manual focus lens, except some noise and grinding from screw focus gear.
The main thing that sets these lenses apart and makes them unique is not one particular feature, but a set of them. They are high end, metal built. They are compact, have good manual and autofocus and have dedicated aperture rings. Where else do we get this same combination of features? I’ll remind you, it’s in the Contax G line…
The other distinct feature of these lenses is the unusual focal lengths. Common information is that the unusual focal lengths came from design priorities of the lenses. The main priorities were compactness and image quality, and as far as I understand it, the exact focal length came as a result of these priorities. The strange lens focal lengths could easily be used as an advantage if you get used to them. The 77mm as a portrait lens gives you ability to put a bit more context into frame, the 43mm is perfectly normal for the 35mm frame and is, for me, the perfect reportage lens. The 31mm is moderate wide with ability to use it as a standard lens.
These lenses are also quite fast – not WOW fast, but real world fast – 77 and 31mm are F1.8 and 43mm is F1.9. They are all perfectly usable and sharp from maximum aperture. Wide open is my most favourite F number… you will see it in photos below.
77mm and 31mm have 9 rounded aperture blades, as such, you get pretty pleasing highlights even when stop down a little bit. If we want to talk about bokeh quality and aesthetics, let me say like this: The 77mm is a cream machine and 31mm has one of the best bokeh from all moderate vide angle lenses I used. In case of 43mm, lets say just that bokeh quality is not the strongest side of this lens – I’d say it’s a little nervous and when you have distinct highlights in background it forms them in small distracting bubbles.
The minimal focusing lengths of all these lenses is good and common for similar SLR lenses. The 77mm has 70cm, 43mm has 45mm and 31mm has 30cm minimal focusing distance.
Flare resistance, contrast and detail in pictures is good – all lenses have moderns coatings, and that makes impact. This all said, all three lenses has its own distinguishable character, that is to say, they are not just another boring, perfect lens!
With the Pentax MZ-S and these three lenses, I can have everything I need in such small and light package for a whole photo weekend where I’m not sure what photo opportunities will encounter. That, I think, is very cool.
I’m completely satisfied with ease of use of this set. If the main measuring of camera equipment criteria is the I don’t have to think about camera while taking picture and can completely concentrate on scene, its perfect. Simple as that. And this camera, together with any mentioned lens completely disappears during usage.
The quality of results that I get more than satisfies me. I’m not an photo artist or professional that makes living from photography. I’m only hobbyist and only sometimes I use a picture or two for my work. The level of my pictures corresponds to that, and this means that the abilities of camera and lenses is greater than the possibilities I will throw at it by fair amount. I’m limiting factor of my pictures, not this set and I think that I’m still unable to show true potential… though I do try… This also means that I don’t have those “pro requirements”, don’t care about super sharpness, ultra high resolving power, very serious weather/storm/ Sahara desert sealing abilities, or my equipment’s ability to survive tank/battle helicopter attack….
But I do care about such aspects as design, ergonomics, the weight of system, the possibility to use – and availability of – accessories that I require. I care about adequate feeling of quality during use, I care and like when lenses have and show their character, their unique signature in the pictures.
The Pentax MZ-S and my selection of Limited’s deliver in all those areas with excess, and I have very good time using them.
Do I think it’s the best camera in the world, the only one that I will use or even the holly grail of all compact SLR camera systems? No, there are other similar good sets out there. I even use some of them: I love the Contax S2 with its spartan usage philosophy and superb Zeiss glass. I enjoy my MF Mamiya 645 1000s set with its balance of size and weight and the shallow DOF abilities that comes with its fastest MF lens. I adore Yashica MAT 124 G for unique TLR experience, true MF feeling and special Tessar lens signature. Hell, I even like to shoot my Sony A7R II for ability to state that digital sucks (thats not true, I like it, but it sometimes it still annoys me). And then there are countless cameras and systems that I haven’t used yes… What I’ve tried to say here is that this Pentax set is not “best”, because there is no “best”!
What I’m saying that my Pentax MZ-S and my selection of Limited’s posses very unique abilities and design solutions. Some might say that when you spend some time to think about this camera and lens set, it’s also very odd! But odd in a good way, I say, like Odd John from an Olaf Stapledon novel…
More of my work can be found here: www.beautifulgrain.com
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37 thoughts on “Pentax MZ-S and 31mm, 43mm, 77mm Limited lens trio review – By Aivaras”
Thank you for adding to my photo knowledge on a rainy Saturday morning. I always liked Pentax cameras and the MZ-S appears to be a gem. The lens series are bold in their unusual lengths, but your photos show their really great lenses. Best of luck with it.
Some of the Pentax AF designs are interesting. I really liked the earlier SFX/SF7 body design where the flash shoe was over the handgrip and LCD over the prism.
These models look even odder then MZ-S… Hadn’t opportunity to use them, but I heard good things.
Now that’s a great review imho. The Pentax MZ-S is the best 35mm camera I’ve ever used as I love mine. I’ve always felt a zen like quality when shooting with it. They are quite thin on the ground in the UK luckily I got mine about 4 years ago in fact I’m going to take it out this weekend.
“Zen” is the right word! Good luck in weekends captures!
I owned a 43 & 77, and yes they are great lenses & fun to use
Those lenses you featured are way lout of my price range I’m afraid……….I’ll just have to stick with my assortment of various Pentax zoom lenses………
Yeah, they not cheap. But pentax is good bot providing backwards compatibility with a lot off old lenses, and there are many good ones in lineup. If you want to try primes that don’t cost arm and leg and still provide interesting pictures – look at manual “M” or “A” lenses.
Firstly, great images – it just shows that you can have whatever camera you like but you still have to have a great eye.
About 6 months ago I came over from shooting Leica for many years with an old 35 Cron and a Hexar RF/Leica M4-2 as I wanted a camera brand that covered full Auto camera/lens when needed but I could do full manual when I needed that too. I decided to go to Pentax and bought up the three limited lenses and then bought a few old cameras (all in excellent condition) including the MZ-6, MZ-S, MZ-3 and MZ-5N.
I must say that my favourite was the MZ-3 or MZ-5N but after going through four of them in about two months I gave up trying to find one that worked and turned towards the MZ-S and MZ-6 as I figured they were newer and hopefully less prone to the mirror issues.
I agree with all that you said about the MZ-S but for some reason it just doesn’t feel right to me in the hand and I always end up grabbing the MZ-6, which is odd as it has a far worse viewfinder and 180 degrees from the beauty and feel of a Leica but it just feels better in the hand to me and does everything I need. I shoot mostly in full manual but for family I can switch to full Auto everything on camera and the lenses and use it like a Contax T2.
Your review has made me think I should try it again though so I might dig it out and fire up another roll!
Thanks for good words about pictures.
Camera preference is very individual thing and I fully believe that one may prefer MZ-6 over other models. I also own MZ-3 and it fantastic camera, I still use it and enjoy it. Comparing to MZ-S its a bit too small, so my pinky finger hangs in the air and with MZ-S I can securely and comfortably grip all camera, autofocus is slower and vf readings is hardly possible to see in bright sunlight. I know that MZ-6 would annoy me with plasticky feeling and dark vf 🙂 but it personal…
what is the compact camera seen in the very first photo? I don’t recognize it.
Fuji Klasse S
Aivaras, the MZ-S focus point selector switch is very easy to operate if you do this with your l e f t hand index finger from below. When holding the camera lens with your left hand, the index finger is free to move the swich quite conveniently.
And I also like your pictures a lot!
Thanks for compliment. Will try your suggested method for focus point selection.
“All three lenses were created by same man, lens designer was Jun Hirakawa.”
The 31mm wasn’t designed by Hirakawa. His idea of wide angle limited had slower F/2.4 max aperture (probably because he wanted to keep 49mm filter thread on all three), but Pentax wanted something faster, so settled for design made by Murata Masayuki and Takayuki Ito. Source: http://douglasviewfinder.blogspot.com/p/known-pentax-lens-designs-and-designers.html
Thanks for knowledge and interesting link. So 43mm and 77mm made by Hirokawa and 31mm by Murata Masayuki and Takayuki Ito. Right?
I wouldn’t exactly say “settled for”, since the 31mm is possibly the most wonderful of the three sisters. They’re all great though. My wife loves the 43mm for studio portraits of children, and I like all three of them. The 77mm is notably good at its closest focus too, making it very versatile. That 31mm really does seem to have pixie dust…
The MZ-S is also my favourite AF Pentax body. The control logic ‘just works’ for me: selecting modes without the bother of a mode dial is very reminiscent of the approach taken by Fuji in the X series digital cameras.
The form factor works for me too, fitting my hands perfectly, while the slanted top-plate seems so obvious that after using it one wonders why all cameras aren’t made that way. The vertical battery grip is also among the best I’ve ever used: it fits the hand perfectly, and the way it attaches and detaches firmly with just a button press and one slide of a lever is inspired and makes all the screw on grips of other cameras seem an outdated chore. If only Pentax had stuck to that design for the grips on their digital bodies. The ‘analogue exif’ where shooting data is imprinted between the sprocket holes is also a brilliant and incredibly useful idea. Why doesn’t every high-end film body so this?
And yes, focus point selection is easy if you use the left index finger 🙂
I have to disagree about the MZ-S not being professionally rugged though. The stainless steel chassis makes it very solid indeed. I swung mine onto my shoulder once and accidentally smacked it into an exterior corner of my house. The camera didn’t even suffer scratched paintwork, the house got a chunk of brick knocked out of it…
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Great pictures, as well. Seriously.
Reading it makes me tempted to dive back into the analog Pentax pool. Decades and decades ago, in the dark analog-only ages, I shot with multiple generations of Pentaxes – from Spotmatics and later through MX’s (and one ME Super). Today I am a happy digital convert, including my current KP (the nicest DSLR Pentax has ever made in my opinion, though many say its older and larger full-frame sibling, the K-1, is even nicer) – and a recently acquired K-01 which, in spite of its many haters, I find cuter than a bug’s metaphoric ear.
But, coming back to the MZ-S – reading your review made me want to buy one…and I’m giving it some serious thought. However I have one specific question to ask you – a fellow Pentaxian told me that a number of MZ-S’s experienced a weird but catastrophic failure – of the mirror motor – which on (earlier) models was plastic – and later models was metal (brass probably): apparently quite a few of the plastic-geared mirror motors simply failed…and repairing them used to be prohibitively expensive, but now (with zero parts availability) is virtually impossible.
My question for you is — is the mirror motor on yours of the metal or plastic variety?
THANK YOU AGAIN for a wonderful review – and a lot of cool photos 😉
MZ-S is really worth attention. Especially for those, who already own Pentax glass.
Getting back to Your question about motor gear. Its impossible to see it without disassembling the camera – I just inspected it, so – cant answer.
On the other hand – You should check sources about that plastic mirror motor gear. I made an investigation, before I acquired MZ-S (around 2015) and as far as I remember all MZ-S had brass gear, even some of late year production MZ-3 received same brass gear (its the same motor in MZ-S / MZ-3 / MZ-5n). Its what I learned quite long time ago, cant be sure that I’m correct, take this with a “grain of salt”…
But I also have new spare mirror motor in my drawer 🙂 It appeared in e-bay for 10 USD some time ago and I took it a a possible future part for my MZ-3. He he… So I’m prepared for everything. 🙂
My guess is you may have been lucky to find – and acquire – the spare mirror motor (which you bought on eBay). They don’t seem to be available nowadays.
On the PentaxForums website, there are a number of detailed (and informative) threads on the infamous mirror (and mirror motor) problems, which, seemingly, affected most of the cameras in the MZ series – including (according to quite a few owners) the MZ-S – as well as many (if not most) of the earlier (and ‘lesser’) models.
The most knowledgeable and detailed responses and posts came from a gentleman who lives in Winnipeg, Canada – and who had successfully disassembled and repaired a large number of different MZ cameras with the stuck mirror – plastic gear problems. His solution was to replace the plastic-geared motor with a brass-geared one. BUT – and this is the interesting part — his theory is that the earlier production models of most of the MZ cameras all suffered from this problem – because the plastic-gears were standard in all of them – UNTIL 2002, when the Pentax changed its official corporate name from ASAHI OPTICAL COMPANY (Asahi Opt. Co.) to PENTAX CORPORATION. Supposedly, after this name change, the cameras which were then (and subsequently) produced had the bass gears – while the ones produced previously had the defective plastic gears.
According to him, the way to tell whether you have a newer or older MZ-S is to check the bottom – where the serial # is – and see if it says Asahi Opt Co – or Pentax Corporation. Supposedly the same would be true of other models as well. I hope he is right – because I have JUST purchased (from a seller in Japan) an MZ-3 – which has a Pentax Corp on the bottom. The MZ-3 was the other AF Pentax body that truly appeals to me – so I’m keeping my fingers crossed that the one I am buying…will last. (I guess only time will tell!)
These days, the MZ-S’s seem to cost considerably more than the MZ-3’s – which is part of the reason I bought an MZ-3 right now. But I’m optimistic that it will be a good camera – and I’ll let you know how it turns out 🙂
THANKS AGAIN, seriously, for the entertaining and informative nature of the articles you have written here. They are fun to read – in addition to being helpful!
Thanks for detailed info regarding gear. Looks like all my cameras are early asahi.
Have fun with your new acquisition – MZ-3 is fantastic camera, I love using mine no less than MS-S. Well… frankly speaking I love all my cameras. :))))
Which point and shoot is that in the title image? I looks gorgeous.
It’s a fuji Klasse W or Klasse S
Thanks. The nicest looking ones often are also the most expensive ones (^^;)
True, true… 🙂
Its Fuji Klasse S
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A couple of points, I have both and MZ5n and MZS, bought from new many years ago and although I haven’t used them for some years, I’ve never had any problems with the mirror.
The only problem I had with the MZS was that the eye cup had a strong tendency to come loose and fall off, I only had to replace it once but the number of times I had to retrace my steps was irritating. In the end I had to resort to checking it every few minutes, which was equally irritating.
The other problem I’ve encountered with the MZS is the rubber cup over the electronic cable release became very sticky and disintegrated leaving a gooey mess and I’ve not been able to find a replacement. This has lead me to worry about the rubber seals decaying on my Pentax K5 and KP.
I also found that the grip would become painful after prolonged use, that sharp edge, especially when I had a Metz 45 CL-4 strapped to the side, Sadly this sharp edge has been replicated on the KP, unlike the more rounded and more comfortable K5.
Finally of note, one of Pentax earliest forays into digital were with this or rather a similar camera with the vertical grip fully integrated into the body so it was one unit and a full frame 6mg sensor but which came first, the film or the digital version, I don’t know . Sadly it appears that the failings of this sensor, led to the project being shelved but shame really. Imagine if Pentax had introduced the first full frame digital camera, how different the camera world would have looked today.
The MZ-D – https://www.dpreview.com/articles/8322647280/pentaxdigitalslr
Concidering how long it took for them to release the K-1 – they must have had real trouble with that camera!
And yeah, a I have picked up on a bunch of your issues already. I might come back to some of them in some sort of further post about the camera in fact
Well, it was the same sensor that Contax tried to use with the N Digital. User experience was that the sensor failed easily and often, requiring a sensor replacement under warranty. Contax was losing big on each one sold and pulled the plug rapidly. It sounds like Pentax was smart to give up on it. And there was no other available full-frame sensor at the time.
True points about covers and eye cup – I started to shoot without it, because of that. To solve eye cup issue – there is alternative Pentax eye cup made from one piece quite soft plastic – this one holds better.
I don’t feel discomfort because of the grip – maybe it depends on hands size…
Yes that could be interesting. I forgot to mention the control dial, I certainly can’t turn it with just a thumb, I always had to use two fingers but despite it’s flaws, I did quite enjoy using it, if not as much as my MZ5n 43mm ltd combo.
If I can help in the future, give us a shout.
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