Helmut Newton

Helmut Newton- Pages from the glossies – by Anil Mistry

This piece is all about a photography book that I love: “Helmut Newton- Pages from the glossies“ which focuses on his magazine work from 1956 to 1998. It’s a big book, running to 543 pages, filled with facsimiles of magazine spreads from a number of decades that combine to give a good insight into his style.

Helmut Newton

Helmut Newton (1920-2004) was a Titan of fashion photography. A man whose work constantly pushed boundaries and arguably set the stage for contemporary fashion photography as we know it today.

Helmut Newton

My wife bought me the book as a birthday present over 15 years ago.

It brings together a mind-blowing body of iconic work, and it’s great to see how his style evolves as the years advance- from simpler “classic” fashion photography shots to amazing spreads where his shoots become the stage for strange narratives to be played out.

Helmut Newton

For me, Helmut Newton’s work captures a “golden age” of shamelessly sexy and creative fashion photography, and is a reflection of the evolving tastes and liberated outlook of society itself at the time – I love the decadent, cinematic disco grandeur that his work reflected in the 70’s and 80’s- you can feel the joy in every frame.

Helmut Newton

His work was not without controversy. Newton was often accused of objectifying women via exploitative imagery, but to me his work is more style than exploitation- it’s all about strong tall women in positions of power over men – there is a strong streak of symbolism and fetishistic imagery in a lot of his projects, but in my opinion he always manages to keep it beautiful as opposed to uncomfortable in any story he is telling- compared to modern day fashion photography it’s pretty tame. As a boy, Newton wandered the streets of a bohemian 30’s Berlin with a camera, and you can see that the things seen by the boy had an influence on the man.

Helmut Newton

And speaking of stories, this book is full of them: A James Bond themed shoot that actually features Ian Fleming – a strange JG ballard “Crash” inspired shoot in which models pose with crash test dummies and l mobility aids become fetishized – incredible cinematic vistas in which models are posed to play out scenes from beautiful films that don’t exist- “extreme fashion” shoots in which you’re not sure if you’re looking at a model or a mannequin and magnificent, powerful shots in which models pose with packs of barking dogs and rearing horses.

Helmut Newton

What I also love about this book is that his photographs are facsimiles- seen in their original layout style- along with text from whichever magazine they were originally in- so you get to see how the shots were actually seen by readers, interacting with type as part of a piece of graphic design, providing an interesting insight into the evolution of magazine design through the decades

Helmut Newton

There is just so much to take in. Every frame is a work of art- Helmut Newton’s work was beautifully executed and his fantasies are meticulously realized. He was one of those brilliantly talented people who literally called the shots with his work- the fashion labels his models were wearing are pretty much irrelevant. They are mere costume props in his photographic fantasy world. Everyone just wanted to work with him, and he seemed to do whatever the hell he wanted a lot of the time- and it was always beautiful.

Helmut Newton

I’d recommend this book because it’s such a comprehensive collection of his magazine work. It’s easy to spend hours poring over the shots, and closer inspection just makes you admire him more. His composition, his obvious knack for getting the best out of superstar models and his amazing eye for creating super sexy, super stylish images.

Helmut Newton

Helmut Newton died in 2004, when his car hit a wall on Sunset Boulevard in Hollywood as he left The infamous Chateau Marmont Hotel where he had been living.

Even his death was darkly glamorous.

Helmut Newton- Pages from the glossies can be bought here

Anil Mistry is a creative director and photographer.
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9 thoughts on “Helmut Newton- Pages from the glossies – by Anil Mistry”

  1. Whilst the review is mildly entertaining it really tells us little, and what points it does raise ate clearly pulled directly from a better known review of this tome.

    1. Hi andy thanks for your comments- I’m
      Pretty sure the views are my own, as I wrote it myself- with my own opinions and stuff. I’m sorry you weren’t fully entertained, I’ll try harder next time

    1. Thanks Evan. Helmut’s work was very much of its time- if anything it’s actually quite tame by modern fashion photography standards- but it was always classy in terms of production. I love it!

  2. I like that your review is totally subjective. I agree with the podcasters and photographers who say that we should buy more books rather than gear. Homing in on the right ones may not be easy but then it really can be an inspiration.

    1. Hi Jeremy- I don’t think it’s possible to be anything but subjective with opinions on art and photography. And that’s what makes it interesting. I agree that books are as important as gear. I scour charity shops for photography books as well as cameras

  3. I saw an exhibition of this work in Berlin a couple of years ago. I really enjoyed the grandeur of his shoots. A style of photography I could never hope to copy. Thanks for sharing. Rankin is someone else I admire a lot for doing stuff I would never have the imagination to do.

  4. HN is my hero, the reason i took photography, the master i learned everything from. He taught me a sense of humour is all you need: it makes you humble, it lets you survive in a world of power and injustice. I also learned from him that it´s theatre, all play and nastyness can be taken in w/ a good laugh.
    A surrealist from a to z.
    In my book, the most important photographer ever.

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